Bear Mountain Picnic 5.8+
| 3,332 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Paul Sloan - 1992 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007 |
| |
Jared on the route
Add Photo Printer View
Description One of the more aesthetic and exposed routes at Foster Falls, Bear Mountain Picnic is fairly stiff for the grade. Try to find someone with a camera to go up the hill and get a picture of you profiled against the sky as you lead the arete! Starting on the ledge below a roof, stem off of boulders until you can clip the first bolt, then pull the overhang and make delicate moves out right to a ledge. From here, follow the pretty and slightly overhanging arete on good holds to the top.
Location Jimmywood section; starts on a wide ledge above the trail, about 10' left of .38 Special.
Protection 6 bolts, bolted anchors.
fun sport just alittle stiff for the rating
| last few moves
| Quick rest before finishing the route.
| Great warm-up climb.
| | |
| Comments on Bear Mountain Picnic |
|
By grizz Apr 6, 2008
| The initial move is definitely hard for 5.8. I also found a few of the bolt placements to be less than ideal with potential falls on to ledges and such. The exposure of the arete is quite thrilling. A lot of rope drag if you do not use some long draws in places as I remember. |
By Chris Hannes From: Kenosha,WI Nov 26, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Really fun exposeed arete. Bolts were okay, don't know if there would be a better way to bolt it, have to take what the rock gives us. An 11 leader will have a blast on this, an 8/9 leader will shake a little but the holds are all there, just exposed. |
By willeslinger From: Golden, Colorado Jul 25, 2010 rating: 5.9-
| Great climb up an interesting rock formation with one of the those great views up top that only climbers can see... man. I would suggest a crash for summer climbing. The first bit of climbing is really slippery when you're sweating, and the rock down below is nasty (not to mention the fall someone spotting you stands to take if you hit them too hard) |
By jaredmartin35 Aug 5, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| i did this climb for a warm up and loved it. i climbed it 3 times after that. i got the profile against the sky picture as well. usually routes at that grade aren't alot of fun, they're just good warm ups, but this one is definitely worth doing no matter what you climb. you'll probably want an experienced belayer if you plan on leading and don't know if you can make it. my friend fell and i caught him, but i had to make sure he had enough slack not to smack his head on the roof but not so much that he hit the ground. i think i got lucky he swung right under the roof and no problems or accidents. (whew) |
By Chad Burdyshaw From: Signal Mountain TN Aug 26, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| Fun climb! I agree the start can be a little challenging for beginners, but can be easily bypassed by approaching route from the right. Also the belay ledge is a small rock platform about 30' up from the trail so you might want to anchor your belayer to one of the nearby trees.
| Start of Bear Mountain Picnic Submitted By: Chad Burdyshaw on Aug 26, 2010
| |
By DankBird77 From: Fairfax, VA Dec 21, 2010 rating: 5.9
| Harder than 5.8 IMHO, and novice leaders should expect this not to be an easy "picnic" that being said good warm up. All but beginning of route is in shade. Makes it a bit cold for winter mornings. |
By Jason Watts From: Boulder,CO Dec 13, 2011 rating: 5.9-
| scared the piss outta me when i first climbed it. Could climb 9, but had never done anything this "bold". I will always remember the move out from under the roof. great climb for anyone serious about the sport. |
By CraigS. May 25, 2012
| Tough for the beginning leader that I am. Did some other 5.9's that felt better than this. Good holds are there, just takes time to find. Get's hot up top! |
By Brad Edwards From: Grand Junction, CO Jul 8, 2012
| This was one of my first leads and I think really set me up to do other stuff that had some exposure. Super classic. |
|