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The Oracle
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Beak to the Future T 
Beaking In Tongues 
Fantasia T 

Beaking In Tongues 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A4

   
Type:  Aid, 7 pitches, 700', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A4 [details]
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997
Page Views: 5,316
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Jan 14, 2008

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Here we are on pitch 3.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'

Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.

Location 

Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.


Photos of Beaking In Tongues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the route
View from the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt leading pitch 5.
Matt leading pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following pitch 6.
Matt following pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch
BETA PHOTO: First pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the ...
On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A bomber equalized piece
A bomber equalized piece
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Levine, pitch 4.
Dave Levine, pitch 4.

Comments on Beaking In Tongues Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Jan 15, 2008

Thanks for posting! Your trip report on supertopo was very entertaining.
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
Nice Job.
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 23, 2014

Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day.
My gear suggestions...

-bring swim goggles
-single set micro cams
-triple set from green alien to #2 camalot
-4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6
-a set of stoppers
-hybrid aliens
-2 specters
-5 sets of peckers
-blades, LA, angles, z-pins
-2 lead lines for the last pitch

Great climbing, amazing line!

DO IT!!!
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 26, 2014

"Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"

Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.

Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.

My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben!
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Feb 10, 2016

Looks like the Supertopo trip report's gone.
Trip report from the first ascent:
deserttowersbook.com/node/20

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