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Green Adjective Gully
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Beaked Whale 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lance Bateman, Ben Folsom Nov. 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 9, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Beaked Whale climbs from the first pitch belay of ...

Description 

Pitch 1- Climb the right leaning first pitch of the Eve traverse passing a few fixed pieces. Establish an awkward hanging belay below a roof in a wide section a few feet before the fixed pin belay for Eve Traverse. Medium to large cams for the belay. C2

Pitch 2- A good and fun traverse under the roof up and left leads to a fixed hex at about 20 feet. Above this a short chimney leads to scary blocks and a long, skinny block at the lip to the left. Either squeeze through or climb over the "beaked whale" and belay on the stance just above. A mixture of cams for the belay. 5.10
(key gear placements can help keep rope from getting stuck at lip) This is a short but Wild pitch!

Pitch 3- A very short pitch just to move the belay to a better location for belaying the final pitch. Climb around the corner to the right and up a nice finger crack to a large horizontal and belay on gear. 5.10-

Pitch 4- A nice finger crack leads up and right to a rest below a small overhang. Continue over the roof to the lip of the wall. Another 20 feet of runout 5.6 up a low angle dihedral lead to the top and a belay from good cams. 5.11-

To descend we scrambled uphill along the edge of the Green Adjective Gully until we could make our way into the gully and back down to the base of the route.

This is a prominent line in the Green A gully. If anybody knows of this being ascended previously, please let me know. It is not in any Wasatch guide books, is guarded by an aid start and some very scary looking blocks as well. Other than a bomber fixed hex, with multiple slings tied around it, low on the route (just below the blocks), there was no other sign of previous passage.


Location 

Located in the Green Adjective Gully, directly across from Wheels on Fire. The First pitch is the same as pitch one of the Eve Traverse. (See Guidebook)


Protection 

Two sets of cams from purple C3 size to #4 camalot. 1 each #4.5, #5 camalot. A set of stoppers.
(The #4.5 and #5 size cams probably aren't necessary but we found them useful, especially for a couple belays.)



Photos of Beaked Whale Slideshow Add Photo
Lance getting ready to squeeze through the beak.  If you look closely you can see how far it extends.
Lance getting ready to squeeze through the beak. ...
Comments on Beaked Whale Add Comment
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By mountainsense
Nov 10, 2009

nice work, gentlemen! s

By christ
Nov 11, 2009

Good work fellas. Been looking at that line for years...glad someone finally went up and did it!