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First route from the left on the wall facing away from the road. All the way up the hill on the backside. Finishes on Smeagol's anchors.
Bolts & Chains
Dec 10, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
It would be nice if some motivated local did something about the anchor situation on this wall. I'm probably exaggerating a little but i seem to remember something like 8 routes sharing 3 anchors. The anchors were protruding bolts with chains being held down by low grade steel washers on which you tugged quite hard as you tried desperately to get 15' over to the line you were cleaning. Pretty sub-standard for such a popular crag, in my opinion.