This short crag has a few nice moderate trad routes, a one minute approach, and is very shady. The crag is also very streamside and some of the routes start directly out of the water. This makes for a very good summer crag for toproping or trad climbing.
Beachball Crag is on the right side of the road a mile and a half up the canyon. It is shortly after Dogwood Crag, and just before the roadside bouldering on the Wave Wall. There is a pullout on the right just past the Ledgemere Picnic Area, and you can cross the stream easily to get to the base of the routes. Walkoff is possible on both sides of the crag.
There was a new route on the Crag next to (left of) the 5.10 and 5.8, kinda up the gully. Can't remember the names of the climbs. Someone chopped the bolts on it. Why would they do this? It was a face, with no possible natural pro. I thought it was a fun albeit easy route. Also there were chains for the 5.10 that goes over the little roof, they are gone as well. What gives? I understand maybe the chains for the 5.10 weren't supposed to be there or something. But why chop all the bolts off of such a fun little route? It was a totally legitimate route, and the bolts were placed well, I don't understand. Does anyone know about this?
A couple friends and I have recently been trying to clean this area up. A few weeks ago we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree that had fallen on Spf 25. it was a nice feeling knowing that I was the first to climb the route in several years. I also climbed the fat crack to the right of spf 25 and think I got a posible f.a. It goes at 5.9. I would like to call it The Beached Whale if I did get the f.a.
I was just up at Beachball crag and found at least three (3) top-rope anchors had been removed. Why someone would chop anchors at this crag makes absolutely no sense to me. Sure you can set trad-anchors in some places but not everyone has the gear or skill set to do that. I would think we would like to encourage climbing for all people at all levels without getting anyone injured. Besides it is all short, low grade stuff that real climbers wouldnít bother with but itís great for new folks or kids. Iíve personally free soloed all over the whole damn thing and have lots of trad gear, but, I have friends with small children that love the security of a top-rope and I canít always be there to set anchors for them.
In any case, I plan to re-bolt the anchors. And while Iím usually a traditional old school hand driller, Iím bringing a Bosch for this project. If anyone can add some insight on why the anchors were removed or have any concerns or suggestions on the placement of new hangers please feel free to contact me.