|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1 [details]|
|FA:||Pete Gallagher and Bego Gerhart '88|
|Submitted By:||Brad Brandewie on May 24, 2007|
|Comments on Be There or Be Talked About||Add Comment|
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By Brad Brandewie
May 24, 2007
We found three fixed ropes on the Gossips when we climbed this route. Lame!
Two of these ropes were fixed all the way to two of the summits.
Even More Lame!
We believe they were left by slackliners.
We removed the rope that was fixed to the top of the South Gossip when we left. If you want your rope back, contact me.
More pictures and a TR at piquaclimber.com/past/southgos...
Dec 27, 2013
|I thought it might be fun to aid solo this route yesterday. I should have looked at the pictures a little better. The majority of the route is a v-slot...or so it seemed. However, it was pretty fun and fairly easy (all but trying to use aiders in the slot. I definitely think it would be more fun to free. It you want to aid the whole route, bring about 6 - 8 #2 camalots, about 5 #1's, 2 or 3 #4's, 2 #5's, a #6, and a I think I used a .75 or a .5 in there somewhere. Had I realized this, I wouldn't have had to slide my 2 #1's and 2 #2's all the way through the third pitch. It sure was exciting though. I would give the route a C1+. All placements are bomber, just a little awkward. It felt really good to see a bolt ladder on on a flat face for the last pitch. I can't wait to go back and free it.|
Apr 24, 2014
Gear- Bring a single rack up to .5 Camalot. triples of .75 to #2 Camalot. (Maybe a #3?) Bring a #4 through #6 Camalot FOR THE FIRST PITCH. (You won't need the big gear for the V-Slot Second pitch- just leave it on the plush ledge above the P1 OW).
Rappel- Bring a 60M tag line and leave it on the ledge atop the P1 OW. From there climb with a 70M line to summit and complete 2 raps from the summit back down to the ledge where you left your tag line. From this ledge it's a double-rope rap to the ground. (NOTE** for the rappel from the base of the summit block a 70M rope makes it back to the ledge atop pitch 1 with about 15ft or so to spare. NOT sure if a 60m line would work....).
Great climb. Some bolts/anchors on route are somewhat suspect. All anchors have tat. Prepare to replace if necessary. No chains.
Aug 16, 2014
|Nate and I added some 5.5 tech cord and 2 biners to the rap station from the shoulder today. From there a full 60m rap takes you to the ground.|
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Nov 3, 2015
|Excellent route that has the best rock I've seen in Arches, a great diversity of crack sizes, and a rad summit. Don't know the current policy on anchor replacement in Arches, but this would be a very worthy candidate. A single 70m rope is sufficient for all rappels, with the final one just reaching the ground.|