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|Administrators:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Bryan Knigge on Sep 18, 2011|
|The only access to this wall is by canoe or kayak MORE INFO >>>|
|re: Ice Farming in Fly-Over Country||Brian Arms||10 hours ago|
|Moving to El Paso ... need roommate||meghan c.||13 hours ago|
|re: Starved Rock Ice||jon jugenheimer||2 days ago|
|Climbing Partner Texas- Reimers/Enchanted Rocks/Greenbelt||RobPeschk||2 days ago|
|re: Midwest Ice Conditions-14/15 season||Brian Arms||2 days ago|
|re: Oklahoma and Texas Climbers Help Needed for Oak Flat Legislation||Brent Butcher||3 days ago|
|Urbankrag partner, 12-26/27 and 1/3?||Elizabeth S.||3 days ago|
|re: mon - thurs afternoon ice climbing partners N. Minnesota||SammyP||4 days ago|
|Comments on BC's Wilderness Challenge (BWCAW)||Add Comment|
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By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 21, 2011
Bryan said: "Def bring cleaning tools, a lot of this was covered in crispy lichen and collected dirt in some of the buckets."
That lichen takes more than 100 years to grow, and as a canoeing guide up there we would tell people not to fuck with it on the cliffs, since most of the folks headed to the boundary waters are not climbers and go to see pristine beauty.
How would you respond to that? "It's not illegal so we can do it if we want."?
Are you sure it's ok with the park? I really don't know. But it's something you might want to know. Most people who we would reprimand up there were carving their names in the lichen, so obviously climbing is not the same as that, but still would be nice to confirm before announcing to the mp world to start scrubbing.
By Kris Moulton
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 9, 2012
I agree with Chris. I did a senior research project a couple years ago about finding climbable cliffs in the BWCA with GIS. I have a half dozen or more verified climbable cliffs in the BWCA, but not sure if I want to go climb them. If I leave a permanent (this lifetime plus more) scar on the cliff from cleaning too much, could I live with that? It's not only about me, but will others have a lessened sense of pure wilderness in an area of land that holds America's highest regard as a pristine place, a wilderness area.
Its a fine line between cleaning enough to have a good climb and over-cleaning. I'm thinking that I will try to climb up there, but ONLY if it needs minimal cleaning and can be done without bolts. I commented on "Dream On" about you asking the rangers to bolt it.
Whatever you do, please don't degrade our fragile relationship with the rangers as it is.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 24, 2013
Yes to Chris and Kris. While I understand the desire to put up new routes and FAs I respect the wilderness and fragility of the BWCA too much to start cleaning and chalking it up. The growing season is so short there that it would take decades to undo any damage done now. I've been going every year for 9 years and have stuck to fishing, swimming and general lake-life, even while looking at some cliffs and wondering...
If you climb here, please no chalk and no cleaning. Climb it dirty.
May 29, 2014
I climbed there last weekend. My brother and I just climbed 2 routes each. No chalk/cleaning. It was fun but It's not a place to go for a climbing trip. Go for the beauty of the boundary waters and maybe do a day trip if you need to get your fix. There's not much for TR setups. I would suggest using boulders and not the trees by the cliff edge that grow directly on top of the granite. You can belay from the bottom if you set up by the boulders (see pic) but make sure you scan the route before you set up. There was a huge crows nest on the far left about 60' up on a ledge when we went. Once we saw it, we bailed so we wouldn't risk disrupting any nature/wildlife. The routes by the boulders are 5.7-5.9+.
If you happen to be planning a trip to the Seagull Lake area it's kinda fun but not really worth hauling in a rope and climbing gear. If you really want to climb, I would recommend leaving the climbing gear in the car for the BWCA trip and head out early enough to hit up Shovel Point or Palisade Head on your way out.