|Vertical Smile Wall
Layback up a clean left facing corner (1.5 friends) to the roof. Stem out the roof and pull tricky moves into ofwidth crack above the roof. Climb up the now right facing corn above to another roof passed on the left and finish in the final corner with fingers (yellow TCU).
Rivals BBQ Bomber and Citizen Cane for best 5.11 in the Swell. Rarely climbed, despite its proximity to the road.
Left of the aid lines (e.g. Vertical Smile). Find this route and Street Legal in a cool alcove with a huge leaning block on the right. Park as for Private Pizza and traverse up and left to the route.
Good amount of 1.5 friends, with quite a few thin hands pieces and cups pieces. At least one wide piece is nice above the crux (#5 friend). New rap bolts make for a smooth double rope rap. couple of OW pieces are nice
|By Ben Folsom|
Nov 19, 2007
Thanks for adding this. I haven't climbed this route totally free and therefore did not want to post it, I'm glad it got posted.
|By Ben Folsom|
May 27, 2008
Finally did this route last weekend. It is a nice, long pitch with lots of variety.
|By James Garrett|
Jun 5, 2008
I am glad it got posted, too. To clear the question mark on the FA info, yes it was most definitely first climbed by the late great Dave Anderson, the original founder of hard crack climbs in the Swell. All the "Food Fighter" series climbs (by Dave) throughout the Swell seem pretty classic and worthy....BBQ Bomber, Mean Weaner, Short Stack, Private Pizza, Burgerdier General, etc!
May 20, 2013
This route is more like 115 feet long, a 70m rope is adequate to lower and TR. Bring a lot of .5 and .75 C4s; 5 of each wouldn't be excessive. I think a #4 C4 is big enough for the wide section. Beware of the teetering block on the ledge right above this wide section. Long slings are useful as well.