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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1250 ft (379 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Peter Novotny, Burkhardt Kerkeling |
| Page Views: | 1,020 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Noah J on Jun 22, 2013 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
4th pitch is the crux pitch, and is very well bolted. The rest of the pitches are easier, at roughly 5.6 with a few sections of 5.8. You can easily link pitches doing the climb in 8-10 pitches instead of 12. The descent is serious, at least in the early season. The top ridge was snow covered in mid-June, and descent required an exposed downclimb/4th class walk off. We roped with running pro. An unroped fall would be potentially deadly on the descent route we took.
Location
It's Switzerland. The route has a painted on label indicating the start. Scramble on up the scree field and climb where indicated.
Protection
The route goes at 5c or 5c+, and seems to be bolted with a leader comfortable climbing at that level. Long runouts on terrain easier than 5.8 are the norm. Anything at 5.8 or harder is bolted to make it very safe. Bring trad gear or don't fall on the easier sections. I brought a single rack of tricams and it was helpful in rigging anchors for linking pitches as well as protecting the simul-climbed descent.
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