Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Cascade Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Attack Crack T 
Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge T 
Guide's Wall T 
Lower Highway to Heaven T 
No Perches Necessary T 
Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress T 

Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Complete South Ridge Barry Corbet & Robert French on 7/27/58
Page Views: 9,747
Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Aug 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Rapping off Baxter's Pinnacle with the North Face ...

Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good rock with a sunny southern exposure with a great view above Jenny lake.

The described below should bring you to a huge block for the 1st belay:

P1 Go up and left along a ramp, then go back right past a tree and belay on a ledge where the climb steepens. If you want, the steep wall directly above the 1st belay goes 5.10 and has a couple of bolts. It's a variation called Seizure Disorder.

P2 (5.6) Climb straight up the crest, which angles a little to the left as you approach a large ledge for 2nd belay. A steep crack to the right is the 2nd pitch (5.8) of the South Ridge climb. It has a couple of fixed pins low down.

P3 (5.6) Continue straight up on the south face and top out before setting up belay.

P4 Traverse (more easy) across and slightly down to a large flat stance below the base of the more intimidating tower and set up your next belay from there.

P5 (5.9) Over to the right, just to the left of the corner and above, there is a fixed pin. The crux of the climb is a one move affair to get off of the flat stance and onto the tower above the pin. From there you climb just a bit to the right of the pin and up a big, detached flake. Then a steep (5.7) lieback crack goes up and left along the very steep corner. There are 3 fixed pins in the crack. Finally double cracks lead to the summit.

Although not as hard as the complete South Ridge, a 5.6 pitch vs. 5.8 crack on the 2nd pitch, I really enjoyed staying out on the South Face. The lieback portion of the last pitch had the most enjoyable moves on the entire climb for me.

The rappel is about 75 feet into the notch to the north behind the pinnacle. You then downclimb the steep couloir along the west side of the pinnacle. Watch for loose rock.

Location 

Baxter's is a little difficult to find. I was with former JHMG, Jim Olson in 1987. It's low on the south side of Symmetry Spire's east ridge, but it's hard to see from the east shore of Jenny Lake. It's about a 1/2 hr. approach if you take the boat across Jenny lake. From the trail jct. just west of the Jenny Lake Boat Landing, take the "horse trail" up Cascade Canyon. After about 1/2 mile, you can see the pinnacle on the slope to the north. Continue up trail to talus from the pinnacle and find footpath that leads to the base of the south ridge of the pinnacle.

Protection 

Standard rack. As noted there are a few fixed pins along the way. Sam Lightner and Forest Dramis replaced rap anchor with new bolts on 6/25/07.


Photos of Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan McCool at the crux move, the crux pitch Photo ...
Dan McCool at the crux move, the crux pitch Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thinking of popping the big question? Do this clim...
Thinking of popping the big question? Do this clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the first pitch
On the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The entire climb is visible but only the 2nd and 5...
BETA PHOTO: The entire climb is visible but only the 2nd and 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Baxter's Pinnacle in its entirety as viewed from t...
Baxter's Pinnacle in its entirety as viewed from t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the final tower.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the final tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a 5.8 variation on the first pitch.
This is a 5.8 variation on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scramble to first big tree along ridge.  Follow on...
BETA PHOTO: Scramble to first big tree along ridge. Follow on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Olson leading upper part of P3, South Ridge.
Jim Olson leading upper part of P3, South Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Between the crux moves and the 5.7 slick layback
Between the crux moves and the 5.7 slick layback
Rock Climbing Photo: Baxter's Lost Pinnacle. Early morning View
Baxter's Lost Pinnacle. Early morning View
Rock Climbing Photo: Final pitch, at the start of the layback.
Final pitch, at the start of the layback.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the original 1965 Ortenburger guide to the Te...
From the original 1965 Ortenburger guide to the Te...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early 70's.  Baxter's was the go to place for a sh...
Early 70's. Baxter's was the go to place for a sh...
Rock Climbing Photo: The climber is following P3
The climber is following P3
Rock Climbing Photo: The North and West side of Baxter's from the old O...
The North and West side of Baxter's from the old O...

Comments on Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The trail becomes more and more obvious every year. Look for a cleared, maintained path that branches off the horse trail just before it levels out and makes a bend to the south to rejoin the main Cascade Canyon trail.
By Aaron Lucas
Sep 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was told a secret about the crux. Do not go directly up, traverse far right and find the hidden jug then move up. This made the climb seem much easier than the last time I did it. Also Sept 1 was the last day for the 7am boat ride.
By Chasem
Dec 3, 2009

A fun outing. Worth it for the views alone. The last pitch is the money pitch. The crux move and the layback at the top are protected by a few mind-easing pins. I highly recommend this climb if you've got an extra afternoon in the park.
By Alex A
Jan 27, 2011

Fun climb, the wild Exposure on last pitch, be careful on the Descent gully, there was a lot of loose rock, bowling alley, when we did it,
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Baxter's Pinnacle and No Perches Necessary are closed for nesting peregrine falcons. Likely closed until mid August
By Prametheus
From: Jackson, WY
Sep 9, 2014

Climbed this today (9/8/14) and found some gear right next to the rap anchors on the summit. PM me if it is yours!

I felt some loose rock on route on the 5th pitch and could have probably ripped out a good size chunk if I tried. The loose rock was towards the end of the layback section and it was a golden, block shaped piece of rock. Heads up!
By Will Copeland
From: Driggs
Oct 25, 2015

Found some loose rock on pitches 2 and 4. Knock before you yard!

There is a NPS sign that says "Horse Trail" at the turn off...impossible to miss.

A short and easy approach from String Lake.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Mar 23, 2016

Just added a couple of pictures from the old and historic Ortenburger 1965 guide book showing several other routes on Baxter's Pinnacle. The history is good to know.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!