Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge
|5,049 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Scramble to first big tree along ridge. Follow on...
|Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons MORE INFO >>>|
Good rock with a sunny southern exposure with a great view above Jenny lake.
The described below should bring you to a huge block for the 1st belay:
P1 Go up and left along a ramp, then go back right past a tree and belay on a ledge where the climb steepens. If you want, the steep wall directly above the 1st belay goes 5.10 and has a couple of bolts. It's a variation called Seizure Disorder.
P2 (5.6) Climb straight up the crest, which angles a little to the left as you approach a large ledge for 2nd belay. A steep crack to the right is the 2nd pitch (5.8) of the South Ridge climb. It has a couple of fixed pins low down.
P3 (5.6) Continue straight up on the south face and top out before setting up belay.
P4 Traverse (more easy) across and slightly down to a large flat stance below the base of the more intimidating tower and set up your next belay from there.
P5 (5.9) Over to the right, just to the left of the corner and above, there is a fixed pin. The crux of the climb is a one move affair to get off of the flat stance and onto the tower above the pin. From there you climb just a bit to the right of the pin and up a big, detached flake. Then a steep (5.7) lieback crack goes up and left along the very steep corner. There are 3 fixed pins in the crack. Finally double cracks lead to the summit.
Although not as hard as the complete South Ridge, a 5.6 pitch vs. 5.8 crack on the 2nd pitch, I really enjoyed staying out on the South Face. The lieback portion of the last pitch had the most enjoyable moves on the entire climb for me.
The rappel is about 75 feet into the notch to the north behind the pinnacle. You then downclimb the steep couloir along the west side of the pinnacle. Watch for loose rock.
Baxter's is a little difficult to find. I was with former JHMG, Jim Olson in 1987. It's low on the south side of Symmetry Spire's east ridge, but it's hard to see from the east shore of Jenny Lake. It's about a 1/2 hr. approach if you take the boat across Jenny lake. From the trail jct. just west of the Jenny Lake Boat Landing, take the "horse trail" up Cascade Canyon. After about 1/2 mile, you can see the pinnacle on the slope to the north. Continue up trail to talus from the pinnacle and find footpath that leads to the base of the south ridge of the pinnacle.
Standard rack. As noted there are a few fixed pins along the way. Sam Lightner and Forest Dramis replaced rap anchor with new bolts on 6/25/07.
|Photos of Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: The entire climb is visible but only the 2nd and 5...
Jim Olson leading upper part of P3, South Ridge.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the final tower.
Baxter's Pinnacle in its entirety as viewed from t...
Dan McCool at the crux move, the crux pitch
Baxter's Lost Pinnacle. Early morning View
Rapping off Baxter's Pinnacle with the North Face ...
The climber is following P3
On the first pitch
Between the crux moves and the 5.7 slick layback
This is a 5.8 variation on the first pitch.
|Comments on Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 5, 2007
The trail becomes more and more obvious every year. Look for a cleared, maintained path that branches off the horse trail just before it levels out and makes a bend to the south to rejoin the main Cascade Canyon trail.
|By Aaron Lucas|
Sep 5, 2007
I was told a secret about the crux. Do not go directly up, traverse far right and find the hidden jug then move up. This made the climb seem much easier than the last time I did it. Also Sept 1 was the last day for the 7am boat ride.
Dec 3, 2009
A fun outing. Worth it for the views alone. The last pitch is the money pitch. The crux move and the layback at the top are protected by a few mind-easing pins. I highly recommend this climb if you've got an extra afternoon in the park.
|By Alex A|
Jan 27, 2011
Fun climb, the wild Exposure on last pitch, be careful on the Descent gully, there was a lot of loose rock, bowling alley, when we did it,