Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Parking Lot Rock - West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Batwings T 
Batwings Direct S 
Delay of Game S 
No Parking T 
Norma's Book T 
Pave Paradise T 
Road Rage T 
Solo Mission T 
Suburban Sprawl T,S 

Batwings 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 8,466
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 1) Delay of Game 2) Norma's Book 4) Batwings

Description 

Batwings climbs the crack 15-20 feet right of Norma's book. The initial crack protects well and climbs easy, until you reach the horizontal crack. Place a cam in this crack and angle or traverse right. Aim for the crack just left of the roof. This crack takes hand jams like it was designes for them, and then turns vertical. It still takes the hand jams for a distance then thins out into 2 thin cracks. Take your pick, or use both and pop up onto the face. Find your moves and pick your protection well from this point as it is sparse.


Protection 

2 ropes are needed for the rappel, unless you want to hike to the south of the formation for 2 1-rope rappels. The rack for this guy should be heavy on medium and small camming devices. A couple of long runners are needed also. Save a micro-cam (blue I believe) for the upper face.



Photos of Batwings Slideshow Add Photo
Friends on top of Batwings and Delay of Game
Friends on top of Batwings and Delay of Game
Getting to the nice hand crack of Batwings.
Getting to the nice hand crack of Batwings.
Hand traversing to get to the next crack.
Hand traversing to get to the next crack.
Comments on Batwings Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004

This is a great climb, one thing that sticks in my mind...when you leave the last vertical crack heading onto the upper headwall and face climbing, do NOT pass up any gear placements, the upper face is really runout and I remember thinking that a fall would be a really terrible thing at that point.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 16, 2004

The upper hand crack will leave a smile on face. The runout face at the top is easier if you head left and then back right to the bolt anchor.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Start up obvious crack line - if confident, skip placing gear to avoid rope drag further up. #1 cam at small roof, clip fixed red tri-cam with long runner than move out right to clip the lone bolt. After that the crack is obvious and straight forward. Many of the pods are pseudo large so bring stuff to 3.5 if you've got it. Small to Medium sized nuts work like a charm in the upper section for your last ditch effort to protect before the run out to the top. Take the path of least resistance up and left to reach the summit then go right to the chain anchors and nice solution pocket for belay.

Very fun and highly recommended. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting 5.8's this is an excellent route! Enjoy.

Susan

fixed tri-cam, 1 bolt courtesy of batwings direct, sm/med nuts, 1" - 3.5" cams. chain anchors

By rpc
Jun 23, 2008

Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route!

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 16, 2008

The BEST climb I did at the City last Saturday! Use long runners on the start, and move left to get up on the run-out slab at the top. Once you're on it, it's easy. There are pro placements about 10-12 ft. above the beginning of the slab, but I skipped them because the climbing was easy and I really wanted those chains!

By Ben Folsom
Jul 18, 2008

Yeah, this really is a great route. One of the best for the grade for sure at the City.

By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An amazing route with lots of variety! I don't think that the route is runout. Just before climbing the face at the top you can get several good pieces in if you want. I placed 2 med to small nuts, then 8 feet higher you can get good cams in (yellow and orange TCU's). From there it's maybe 10-15 feet of positive 5.4 face to the top.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is true rope drag is a non-issue if you can wait to put in gear and/or back-clean until the first bulgy move (with 48" runner) and a 24" sling on your second piece to protect the traverse move.

By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010

the face traverse might make a 5.8 leader hesitate a bit. i certaintly whined a lot. get creative with gear in the huge pocket before traversing, i used my blue/yellow metolious offset.

By Drederek
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic route, I'd highly recommend not clipping the bolt, I've seen people get in trouble doing that. You won't want any rope drag at the top. I got a nice metolius orange fcu in at the top of the crack.

By Christian Weaver
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Enjoyable climb. Worthy of City of Rocks. Check out VerticalCountry.com for my description of the route.

By boltclippinfool
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Killer crack! Enjoy the steep slab of Batwings Direct to avoid ropedrag.

By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The upper crack on this climb is some of the best and most exciting jamming I've done at the city. This route takes all sorts of technique. The crux for me was traversing right from the first crack to the upper dihedral.

By Pete Wilk
Jun 3, 2013

I took a single rack and used most of it. Used 6 nuts, especially on the upper sections where the small cracks make for great passive pro options.

Possible to rap with a single 70m rope into Norma's Book, be mindful of your landing spot and the ends of the rope. From the slab it is then an easy down climb to skier's right of where you started. Head towards the trees growing out of the rock.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The traverse was tailor made for a pink tricam. Runout slab climbing keeps it real. Used a brassy wire at the top of the crack before the head games begin. Danced around after that until I found the mantle that was the gateway to the top. Definitely heady.

Rapped with a single 70m from the shuts about 50 feet right of the top.

By DennisL
May 11, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

I found the traverse between cracks to be quite spicy. Be solid at the grade and creative with your gear!

By Jake Nelson
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Any pro you place in the crack before the first face section will need long runners to reduce rope drag higher up, same with the badly placed bolt (if you decide to clip it, which I would advise against).

The hand crack is beautiful, but the face above is a little scary with sparse pro and a long runout to the anchor.

Don't forget a tagline, and rap off quick, there's always someone waiting on this classic line!