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BETA PHOTO: The north edge of the Tinker Toys slab.
This climb is a must do. It has a slight overhang all the way up. That means no rest for your hands. The route is hard to top rope because of the slight overhang. I prefer to lead routes that overhang because I know I won't scrape down the wall if I fall. The crux is the section from the last bolt to the anchors.
This climb is around the left corner of the Tinker Toys wall and faces north. The Green Monster Slab is directly to your left as you climb.
Bolted, Two chain anchor, 5 Quickdraws + 2 for the anchor.
mike climbing battle ship
Apr 24, 2008
This one caught us off guard a bit. We didn't know the rating but climbed it anyways. And I must say that we weren't let down. It had some fun moves and the crux to the top made us both scratch our heads a bit. It's a must do.
|By John Ross|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 25, 2008
Style points are awarded at the third bolt if you hang from the huge jug and let your feet dangle while you chalk up!
|By Jeff Jones|
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jun 9, 2009
I had always looked at this route and thought "No way". However, I was more than pleased when I finally got on it. The holds are huge and the top was exciting. This is a definite MUST DO! I am going to have to get the style points next time.
|By Christopher Sorensen|
From: Provo, UT
Jun 20, 2009
This route is a lot of fun. If it weren't overhung, it wouldn't be that hard, but the constant tension on your arms gets really pumpy really quick. I thought this climb was really similar to the Bulge except instead of being slopy it's got pretty big jugs. It's tricky though.
|By Jon Bitter|
From: Waco, Tx
Aug 13, 2009
If your arms are in good shape this is a pretty straight forward route. If your out of shape like I was, leading it gets a lot harder. 10a if you're in shape cd if you're not.
|By Andrew Seegmiller|
From: Orem UT
Jan 3, 2010
Love this climb. the crux had me scratching my head for a little bit. but i guess that is what makes it so much fun. i thought it felt more like a 10c though. holds felt a little polished when i was on it.
|By Brandon Bishoff|
From: Austin, TX
Jun 14, 2011
At least from conversations I've had with people, this route is unanimously the most difficult 10.b ever. However, this last time I lead it, I stayed to the left using the bigger handholds on the side rather than trying to go straight up the line of bolts and found the route a lot more straight forward. I've also seen/heard of people who climb straight up it without using the holds on the left side, which I think would make the route a lot harder.
|By J Red|
Sep 30, 2011
Ughhh...I need to come back and red point this. My wife and I could not figure out the top from the last bolt to the chains. I must be missing something b/c it felt like 10c/d.