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Battle of the Bulge
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in The Playground
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Advanced Start T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blow Hole T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Climb, Left (var.) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Code Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Luke and Carlo's Route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Obsidian Corner TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+ |
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Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 16 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Route 27 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown, 1970s |
| Page Views: | 618 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Interesting cruxes and some harder climbing for this end of the cliff. Kind of contrived, with some questionable flakes.
Start with a slippery stemming problem just to the right of Barlow's Buttress, with a move onto some crumbly holds to a so-so rest below the bulge.
The guide says the next bulge following a thin seam is the crux. This part doesn’t look to have good pro. Perhaps you could bypass this part by climbing the next crack left instead.
Turn a small roof on good hand jams, and continue up a slab with lots of pockets, avoiding the large roof above on the right.
Doing the 1st half of Barlows Buttress and the top half of this climb may be the easiest combination of these two routes (but still 5.9+ or so).
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