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 ADVANCED
Coup D'etat Wall
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Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 2, 2007
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battle of the bulge

Description 

Climb the chimney, wide crack on decent rock to the roof. Pull through the roof 20 feet up via the fist crack and continue on the slightly slabby dihedral to the anchors. Good rock starting in the roof.


Location 

At the left end of the Coup D'etat Wall, this is the large crack in the dihedral. Start in the wide crack below the roof.


Protection 

Pro to 4" or more. Rap off trees or hike to the rap near the Chickenhead Wall or Diet Pepsi.



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Fist jamming through the crux
Fist jamming through the crux
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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 9, 2013

It's better to start by climbing the slightly overhanging face on the left side of the chimney. No pro is really needed to you get to the roof. Plug in pro at a nice stance before making the crux moves. You only need #3 and #4 camalots for this climb. Anchors are easily visible up on the right hand wall.