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Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Battle of the Bulge Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.03837, -109.54917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 216,480
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
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Description 

This area is around the corner from Donnelly Canyon and generally faces the road (just over 4 miles past Newspaper Rock). It tends to be less crowded (just barely) than Supercrack Buttress since most climbs here are slightly more difficult.

Good climbs at this wall include its name sake, Big Baby, Crack Attack and many more. Nearly every climb at this wall is superb.

Getting There 

Parking can be had either at the major parking lot at the mouth of Donnelly Canyon or a few hundred feet further down the road on the opposite side of the cliff. If you are parking further down the road, there is a cairn that marks the beginning of one approach the takes you to roughly the center of the wall. The trail from the major lot puts you at the south (right as you face it) end of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.1 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',11],['5.11',16],['5.12',5],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Battle of the Bulge Buttress:
Railroad Tracks   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 75'   
Pigs In Space   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Ruins Crack   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cave Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Our Piece of Real Estate   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Think Pink   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Hole in the Wall   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Crack Attack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   
Black Corner   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
3 Strikes You're Out   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Big Baby   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Battle of the Bulge   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Swedin-Ringle   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Quarter of a Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Disco Machine Gun   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Digital Readout   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Christmas Tree   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Ruby's Cafe   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 70'   
Air Swedin   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Featured Route For Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Mike at the second crux, up high climbing through ...

Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...
Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...

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