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Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Bloombagged Again T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Seppuku Flake T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Battle of the Bulge Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.03837, -109.54917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 43,547
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
This Afternoon

77° | 55°
Thursday

72° | 52°
Friday

69° | 51°
Saturday

72° | 51°
Sunday

72° | 48°
Monday

63° | 37°
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area is around the corner from Donnelly Canyon and generally faces the road (just over 4 miles past Newspaper Rock). It tends to be less crowded (just barely) than Supercrack Buttress since most climbs here are slightly more difficult.

Good climbs at this wall include its name sake, Big Baby, Crack Attack and many more. Nearly every climb at this wall is superb.

Getting There 

Parking can be had either at the major parking lot at the mouth of Donnelly Canyon or a few hundred feet further down the road on the opposite side of the cliff. If you are parking further down the road, there is a cairn that marks the beginning of one approach the takes you to roughly the center of the wall. The trail from the major lot puts you at the south (right as you face it) end of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.1 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',18],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Battle of the Bulge Buttress:
Pigs In Space   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Railroad Tracks   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 75'   
The Mystery Machine   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Cave Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Think Pink   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Our Piece of Real Estate   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Hole in the Wall   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Crack Attack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   
3 Strikes You're Out   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Battle of the Bulge   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Black Corner   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
The Big Baby   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Quarter of a Man   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad   
Swedin-Ringle   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Disco Machine Gun   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Digital Readout   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Christmas Tree   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Ruby's Cafe   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 70'   
Air Swedin   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Featured Route For Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Danger Dan Wright at home.

Crack Attack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Battle of the Bulge Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stumbled across this old dwelling between the base...
Stumbled across this old dwelling between the base...
Rock Climbing Photo: Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...
Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...

Comments on Battle of the Bulge Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Grant Gerhard
From: Denver, CO
Mar 23, 2015
HELP! My friend took a nasty whipper and had to go to the ER, in short I left a size 9 pair of Astroman's and some quickdraws at the base of a climb at Battle of the Bulge. If anyone finds them I would be supremely grateful/can Venmo/Paypal. PM me

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