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 ADVANCED
The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Fluke TR 
Flying Fish S 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Battle of the Bulbus 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Greg Bilinski
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: maestro on Mar 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Battle of the Bulbus says it all for this route. Squeeze and balance your way up the high steppin' rock of this new edition to the East Quarry Wall.

Location 

Start in the crack of Tendonkey Punch, then move left. Finish with two bolt anchor left.

Protection 

7 bolts and two bolt anchor to the left.


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By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This can be made more difficult by climbing directly up the face and avoiding the crack feature for the first couple of bolts. Not sure which start is better, but the crux "battle" is unavoidable and quite fun. Clip the chains on the left.
By Mark Rolofson
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is a good addition to the East Quarry Wall, even though not one of the 4 star classics. The climb has 5 protection bolts & 2 anchor bolts (saying it has 7 bolts, generally means protection bolts). Adding another bolt between the 3rd & 4th bolts would improve the climb, allowing the crux moves to be worked without taking whippers.

It is my understanding that the route can be climbed two different ways between 3rd & 4th bolts. The easier, indirect line goes left to "High Tide", then back right. The direct line is not so obvious, quite thin, & much harder (5.12c?). I am curious how first ascentionist, Greg Bilinsky, climbed this section. Other climbers said that holds have broken on the direct line.
I climbed the indirect line. For my redpoint run, I had a long sling on 4th bolt to clip from the left side of the bulbus,(a very short left-facing corner with a rounded hold at its top) to protect a left hand deadpoint to a good hold shared with "High Tide". Once on the shelf, I was able to step up & reach the 4th bolt for an easy clip. Then sidepulls lead back right.
Falling onto the 3rd bolt if you blow the deadpoint is an unpleasant
swinging fall, that I took working the moves. If you go straight up, expect to log some flight time unless you have worked this section on top rope first or pre-clipped a long sling. These bolts are a full 6 feet apart. Clip holds on the direct line are small.