Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 850 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Errett Allen on May 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This has good face climbing on excellent quality granite. The crux is near the top and run out, ending at the start of the second dihedral pitch of Diagonal Right. Alternately, one may traverse right along a shallow crack to the easily visible bolt anchors that exist part way up the first pitch of Diagonal Right. Both endings are good, but the right one offers better protection and easier climbing.
Location
This line is between DMZ (aka: Old Bolt Rt) and Tree Roof. From near the start of DMZ, walk out a ledge right to a small tree. Climb over a small overhang near the bottom and wander up face keeping ~15-20 feet right of the bolts on DMZ. When nearing the Diagonal Rt up high, place a good cam behind a solid block/flake and run it out to the Diagonal Rt belay (5.8). Either finish on Diagonal or scramble off left (4th or easy 5th). You can also climb right from the good cam along a shallow crack to the obvious bolt anchors lower down on the Diagonal Rt. This variation reduces the grade to 5.7. You can rap to the ground from here with one rope. I hesitate to call our ascent an FA since the line is fairly obvious on a well traveled crag and protects entirely with trad gear. This description is from an ascent made in April 2006.
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