This has good face climbing on excellent quality granite. The crux is near the top and run out, ending at the start of the second dihedral pitch of Diagonal Right. Alternately, one may traverse right along a shallow crack to the easily visible bolt anchors that exist part way up the first pitch of Diagonal Right. Both endings are good, but the right one offers better protection and easier climbing.
This line is between DMZ (aka: Old Bolt Rt) and Tree Roof. From near the start of DMZ, walk out a ledge right to a small tree. Climb over a small overhang near the bottom and wander up face keeping ~15-20 feet right of the bolts on DMZ. When nearing the Diagonal Rt up high, place a good cam behind a solid block/flake and run it out to the Diagonal Rt belay (5.8). Either finish on Diagonal or scramble off left (4th or easy 5th). You can also climb right from the good cam along a shallow crack to the obvious bolt anchors lower down on the Diagonal Rt. This variation reduces the grade to 5.7. You can rap to the ground from here with one rope. I hesitate to call our ascent an FA since the line is fairly obvious on a well traveled crag and protects entirely with trad gear. This description is from an ascent made in April 2006.
Trad gear to 2.5 inch (mostly smaller).
|Comments on Battle Fatigue
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Feb 19, 2007
If I am reading this correctly, you are saying this begins just right of [DMZ/Old Bolt Route], and then goes up and to the right, going across [Tree Roof/Schoolmarms in Space], [Pearl Harbor], and [Eight Clicks to Saigon], and then you set a belay at [Diagonal]??
Or, alternatively, are you saying this stays smack between [DMZ/Old Bolt Route] and [Tree Roof/Schoolmarms in Space], and goes mostly straight up, not crossing any of the above mentioned routes??
If the latter, then this sounds like P2 of [Tree Roof/Schoolmarms], but w/ a different beginning. This could be confusing if you do not have a copy of Richard Rossiter's: RMNP - The Crag Areas, (C) 1996, as I don't think Gillett mentions P2 of Tree Roof in his guide.