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Batteries Not Included 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Leo Henson, Karen Henson
Season: Gorgeous north facing shade
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Starting the steep section on Batteries Not Includ...

Description 

Original description in Marty's book: "Pitch One: Climb up a 25' chimney crack to a ledge with a tree. Pitch Two: Sport. Beautiful north facing 6 bolt vertical face with two bulges and a vertical crack at the top. 2 shut rap. Somewhat runout but worth the air time. 85'."

Would eliminate the first pitch and either climb the first pitch of "Adios Larry" and traverse around, or do the first pitch of "Sublime Line" and do the relatively unprotected traverse in from the north.

The crux is a one-two move wonder and the rest of the climb feels more like a mid-10. But, the rock is stellar and it's a very fun climb overall.


Location 

The "chimney" first pitch is about 15' right of the start of "Adios Larry" from the same ledge. Literally starts from where you come up to from the gully. Chimney is east facing and the actual climb is the north facing face that is right around the arete from Adios Larry.


Protection 

Take at least a couple cams smaller than 1" for the top as it is quite runout above the crux and I have no idea why you'd want the airtime that Marty is referring to.



Photos of Batteries Not Included Slideshow Add Photo
traversing to the start of Batteries Not Included from Sublime Line
traversing to the start of Batteries Not Included ...
Thin start leads to steep jugfest above
Thin start leads to steep jugfest above
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