Batso Canal 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Kirk Miller |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Aug 3, 2008 |
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Batso, climbing superhero, author of Downward Boun...
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Description Pull the bouldery start, clip the second bolt from a hidden jug on the left, traverse right and balance out onto your perch on the arete (the bailout left is fun too), find the pockets and mount the bulge to reach the anchors. Beware the bat.
Location This is right of Made In The Shade, see the topo photo.
Protection Eight bolts to chains.
Jug hauling to the anchor.
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Nan on the lower section of Batso Canal.
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Nan through the second crux, gaining the arete.
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By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 9, 2008
| Great moves in the middle section of the climb, especially getting onto the arete. |
By Kristoffer Schmarr
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c
| A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete. |
By Tim Kline
From: Littleton, co
Aug 31, 2008
| The start of this climb is definitely the crux; however, getting out onto the arete is also tricky. I felt that this was more like a 5.11- than a .10+. Great climb though! |
By AOSR
From: Denver
Sep 11, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c
| I loved this route. Fun beginning with a few strength/reach moves, traverse to the arete, then an awesome and well protected move to get going up the exposed corner.
I had the pleasure of meeting the man responsible for this route last time there--many thanks should go his way for putting this great wall together. Thanks Kirk (and I did nail it clean on my 2nd try!) |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 24, 2008
rating: 5.10-
| Interesting and imaginative line! Moves getting to the arete are memorable and fantastic. Finishing jug haul is a hoot. |
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 3, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| Very nicely bolted, thanks Kirk!
The start is very bouldery; I'm sure I could work out a much smoother sequence with repeat ascents. I went too far right, then too far left and made it much harder than it needs to be. Getting on to the climb is the crux! |
By Chris Darr
From: Denver, Co
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10
| Really fun route. Thanks for putting it up Kirk, and good to meet you this evening! |
By Alison Conrad
Jun 18, 2009
| Good route. A bouldery move mixed in with some balancey moves. My favorite lead here at this wall. It felt about 5.10. |
By Bruce Pech
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Nice, Kirk. A smidge better and harder than Beasto and Turkey Jerky. Cool moves traversing out to the arete. The start was a bit reachy for 5'3" Wendy. |
By Jack C Swift
From: Evergreen, CO
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Tough start, but very interesting and balancy moves. I went up to the undercling before taking the airy step out to the arete. Interesting route. |
By Phill T
Aug 14, 2010
| The direct line is also fun to fire off on TR. Maybe 10d/11a, rejoins the main line at the 3rd or 4th bolt. Great line with either start! |
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d
| My favorite 10 at Canal Zone. Two cruxes. 1 getting to the first bolt (dyno!), and 2 getting out onto the arete. I found the start to be really physical followed by sustained climbing. Lesser crux getting out onto the arete. Both cruxes are easier for tall people.
Felt like a darn tough 10, just shy of the 11 mark. |
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