Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Main Wall, left side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amandla S 
Batskins T,S 
Bwana Dik T,S 
City Park T 
City Park Bolt Ladder S 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 
Dwarf Tossing T 
Frog Pond T 
Frog Prince T,S 
Full Horse Power T 
Godzilla T 
Iron Horse T 
Iron Horse P2 T 
It's a dog's life, but you can picnic with us T,TR 
Japanese Gardens T 
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love  T 
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 
Model Worker T 
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 
Numbah Ten S 
Numbah Ten P3 T 
Park Ranger T 
Princely Ambitions T 
Sagittarius T 
Slow Children T 
Stern Farmer T 
Sushi Farmer T 
Tadpole T 
Tantric Bazooka T 
Tommy's Sandbox T 
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 

Batskins 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro
Page Views: 2,064
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Max Hasson photo from rcnw.net Photo depicts, wha...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The truncated first pitch climbs an arch with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a). The full first pitch continues via technical stemming on knobs in a shallow groove, then moves left to an anchor (5 bolts; .12b).

The second pitch follows a bolted ramp past knobs to a tough balance move (.11d). 4 or 5 bolts; thin gear is needed to protect the balance move (nuts, 00-0 TCU's).

Location 

Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.

Protection 

Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.


Photos of Batskins Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking the thin ramp at the beginning of the seco...
Walking the thin ramp at the beginning of the seco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the second pitch ramp on "batskins"...
Above the second pitch ramp on "batskins"...

Comments on Batskins Add Comment
Show which comments
By blakeherrington
May 3, 2014

P1 actually has 3 protection bolts not 5. They protect the 5.12 stemming and face climbing. The lower climbing on P1 is gear protected.

P2 is a seldom-done classic. It can easily be reached without leading P1 by rapping 10m diagonally left from atop Godzilla.

2 bolts protect the first balance crux, stemming off knobs. The topo in SVR shows 3 bolts through this section, and the existing 2 bolts seem a little oddly-placed for freeclimbing. The upper crux protects great with small cams or wires, as well as a 3rd bolt which is clipped just after the crux. This is also new hardware, and it also replaced an old bolt drilled as an aid piece. I thought the location would be better a foot or two lower (or pre hang a draw) for free climbing. This pitch ends at a belay directly above the P1 anchors on J. Gardens.
By JCM
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2016

"Ratskins" variation, 12a:

Climb up the majority of Batskins normally, clipping the first two bolts in the 5.12 part. Before reaching the last (third) bolt, cut left at the large "basketball" knob and angle directly toward the anchor using small knobs and sidepull edges. The third bolt can be clipped by leaning way right after gaining the juggy wafer flake, or you can just skip it and climb to the anchor. The protection for the new sequence is entirely adequate with only the first two bolts clipped.

This variation skips the hard, cryptic, spanny final crux at the last bolt of Batskins and replaces it with a fairly straightforward (and enjoyable) knob crimping sequence. With the upper crux avoided, the hardest moves on this variation are probably those moving past the 1st bolt. All told, it feels about 12a to do it this way. A good step easier than the standard LTW 12b's: Stern, Numbah Ten, Batskins, etc. Harder than TPMV (the 11d version), Tantric Bazooka, or Iron Horse. Probably comparable to Like Honey in difficulty (though very different in style), and a candidate for the most approachable 5.12 at the LTW.

I found this new sequence last Thanksgiving when trying the route with Chris Tyrell. While struggling to figure out the last crux, I happened to swing left and notice "There are holds over here!". We quickly figured out a sequence, and Chris dispatched it that weekend. I didn't have time to try it again that weekend, so I ended up waiting until the first weekend of this spring to do it.

I'm not sure if it has previously been done this way, although the initial dirtiness and coarse texture of the edges suggested that they had not seen much/any human contact before. They have since cleaned up nicely. Some others who have tried this new way have commented that it is basically a different route, and that doing it this way isn't really doing Batskins. Hence, to signify the difference, "Ratskins".

I'd recommend this route to anyone looking to break into LTW 5.12. It is at the bottom end of the grade (for Index, at least), and any climbing above 11a is comfortably protected by bolts. You can drop a TR to check out Batskins or Ratskins by swinging hard left from the Godzilla anchor.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!