||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro|
|Page Views: ||1,338|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008|
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Above the second pitch ramp on "batskins"...
The truncated first pitch climbs an arch with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a). The full first pitch continues via technical stemming on knobs in a shallow groove, then moves left to an anchor (5 bolts; .12b).
The second pitch follows a bolted ramp past knobs to a tough balance move (.11d). 4 or 5 bolts; thin gear is needed to protect the balance move (nuts, 00-0 TCU's).
Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.
Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.
Max Hasson photo from rcnw.net Photo depicts, wha...
May 3, 2014
P2 is an seldom-done classic. It can easily be reached without leading P1 by rapping 10m diagonally left from atop Godzilla.
2 bolts protect the first balance crux, stemming off knobs. The topo in SVR shows 3 bolts in this section, and the existing 2 bolts seem a little oddly-placed for freeclimbing. The upper crux protects great with small cams or wires, as well as a 3rd bolt which is clipped just after the crux. This is also new hardware, but replaced an old bolt drilled as an aid piece. I thought its location actually made sense for free climbing with modern tiny cams protecting the moves a little lower. This pitch ends at a belay directly above the P1 anchors on J. Gardens.