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Bats in the Belfry 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton- 11/94
Page Views: 1,330
Submitted By: susan peplow on Mar 21, 2007
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Description 

Steep start with many well chalked pockets. Climb past two bulges to anchors. Very fun but pumpy!


Location 

Shady area just right of a very large dihedral/cove area.


Protection 

5 shuts - shut anchor



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Finding the big holds after the crux of Bats in the Belfry.
Finding the big holds after the crux of Bats in th...
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By Hillary Davis
May 7, 2007

Outstanding moderate (for Main Wall).

By Hillary Davis
May 17, 2007

...for Main Wall. Which is to say, it's one of the easiest routes on that wall. Moderate is relative.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I consider the term "moderate" in climbing to mean "5.9 or easier". :-) But I understand what you're saying, Hillary.

This is a super fun route irregardless!

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Careful foot placements make the upper crux bulge a breeze.

Watch out for the guano coating most of the first shelf.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 9, 2008

Haven't been on this route in a while. Blew the sequence at the roof by trying to hand jam and go straight up. I'm confident that would work but not that day. HUNG, then used the standard exit going slightly right.

Also, Deidre claims that there is a critical hold that has broken off. It's had been so long since I'd been on it, I didn't miss it. Then, I did hang so maybe it WAS missed after all?!

Opinions on that? Hold missing, more difficult, urban legend to make us old fat weak people feel better?

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Another Jack's route that offers some cool hand jams in key places. I found the hand jam sequence Susan was looking for at the top and it proved an easy flash sequence for me. Short, but great fun!