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The Goose
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Batman 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,265
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2006
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Jason Haas 2/3 of the way up 'Batman' a good sport...
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  • Description 

    This sport route is shown in Rossiter's topo on p.68, but does not include a description in the book. It was originally bolted in the 1980s.

    Locate the obvious South Face route in a blocky dihedral. Move 20 feet left of this dihedral and locate a bolted line. Scramble up onto a ledge with a small tree to get started. Work up past a bolt to a small roof. Clip a second bolt, then pull over the bulge. Continue up past a 2 more bolts and a lost arrow piton over a lip. Climb an easy but runout slab to a bolted anchor. One of the better sport lines in the Flatirons. Technical, but all the holds are there.


    Protection 

    4 bolts, 1 fixed pin. A blue Alien can marginally back up the fixed pin.



    Photos of Batman Slideshow Add Photo
    Aaron Martinuzzi just past the bulge on Batman.  Photo by Jesse Ramos.
    Aaron Martinuzzi just past the bulge on Batman. P...
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 17, 2006
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Probably the best route on the Goose.

    By Dougald MacDonald
    Oct 21, 2007

    Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall.

    By Aaron Martinuzzi
    Sep 25, 2009
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

    I'm with Dougald - this runout after the last bolt is pretty significant, and since it's a traverse, could result in a really unpleasant scrape across the face. Additionally, clipping the first bolt requires some solid 9/9+ moves that, if you were to blow them, would result in a really unpleasant fall.

    Today, 25-Sept-09, my partner and I cut some bogus tat off the anchors and left a couple of carabiners that can be used to belay-from-above and then rappel - I wouldn't want to belay a TR from the ground off the 'biners.

    By Rich Kelly
    Aug 19, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

    I also agree that this was a scary climb. Getting to the 1st bolt is committing and dangerous. I was able to sling a large protrusion on the ledge below using a double length sling. It would keep you from hitting the ground but not the ledge. Because of little traffic on this climb, it is also hard to determine the easiest (and safest) way to go. I did not see the last bolt till I was 15 right of it, so trend up and left at the pin. Also trend left at the last bolt instead of trying to go straight up. It is a long way to the anchor after the last bolt with no gear opportunities.