Climb up to the top of a left leaning ramp. Clip a bolt on the face on the right then climb the face up to a 2 bolt chain anchor at ~70' or continue up to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Single rope rap from first set of anchors or double rope rap from ledge.
Begin a the second ramp left of the parking area, up left from a tree.
Singles with nuts.
|By Greg D|
Feb 3, 2008
Nice plagerism Nancy. Your description reads exactly as Stuart Green's Rock Climbing Arizona guide book. The only problem is it is not accurate. Yes, achors after 70 feet. Then, not quite jugs right away. A few more moves similar to the grade of the climb, then, easier climbing for another 60 feet. Two single rope or one double rope rappel to get off. The upper part is worth doing.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2008
The hardest move on this route in my opinion is the move immediately after clipping the first set of anchors and proceeding to the 2nd pitch. This is a great line and I highly recommend doing it all in 1 pitch.
Jan 2, 2010
FWIW a nice TR direct version is possible off the 1st anchor. Instead of going right at bolt, keep trending up ramp to an undercling and crimp your way straight up to rejoin the regular batline route. Adds about ten new moves. Group consensus was at 5.10-. Possible to lead but would be thin pro with big runout.
As for batline, 1st half or pitch one hardest move is reaching the anchor. Also recommend one long pitch, (with tricky move getting above 1st anchor)...gear after 1st anchor seemed sparse (tho easy). A 70-meter rope will get you to the ground if you rappel towards the base where both the unknown 5.10- and the unknown 5.9 crack start.