Bat Boy  5.11c/d PG13

189 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Bob Horan & Chule Lee, 1998 Submitted By:  jackies on Aug 22, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jackie Hueftle at clip 2 of 3 on Bat Boy, Upper Dr...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route is over quick, but while it lasts it's good times. Climb onto a small shelf with a good arete to clip the first bolt, then do two reachy moves to a really cool, positive fin. Your feet are in space, but clip again and do a few powerful moves through right hand edges and a left hand pinch/undercling to some awesome but slightly dirty pockets around the bulge and the third clip. From here, you're soloing on easy terrain up and left to the anchors of Batarang. The lower off is hard on the rope, and you pretty much have to top rope to clean it.

There is a bail biner on the 2nd hanger and we left it there, but it certainly isn't necessary.

The other routes on the wall looked dirty and guano-y, so this is sort of a lone ranger, but it was definitely worth the trouble.

Dunno about the grade, it was over so fast it's hard to say.

Location 

Rightmost of the 3 routes on this small, appropriately named (guano!), slightly overhanging wall is this fun, guano free, and powerful arete.

Protection 

3 bolts and shares a 2 bolt anchor with the route to the left. You DO NOT want to fall on your way to the anchor, but the climbing is pretty easy up there.