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Bat Attack 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Fisher (1988) direct finish Seth Tart
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,474
Submitted By: Stuart Turner on Nov 12, 2008
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Crimping up on the headwall
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route that is often overlooked due to some obscure pro. The route climbs in two distinct sections. After gaining the route (see protection) a relatively short crux trough the dihedral gets you to some jugs at the roof. This is followed by some intense face climbing to the traverse and the anchors (on Reckless Abandon. This was the original route done by Fisher (12a). The route feels short, but when you lower off you see that it takes a full 60. The direct finish pushes strait up the face to a second bolt and a jug. From hear a hard move to an undercling gets you to a second anchor.


Location 

Between Reckless and Death Wish


Protection 

This route has some mystique due to the use of a removable bolt. It is recommended that you use double ropes (pro on Nut Sweat) because of the unprotectable traverse (5.10). There is some gear after the traverse and the bolt is at the stance. From here you place the RB and clip a fixed wire. After the crux, gear and two sets of rusty old pins takes you to the face. Small wire to a brand new bolt. Not so bad. The direct finish is definitely the way to go with one more bolt and an old anchor.



Photos of Bat Attack Slideshow Add Photo
Dear little undercling, please hold strong!
Dear little undercling, please hold strong!
almost out of the lower crux
almost out of the lower crux
beginning the crux moves of the direct finish
beginning the crux moves of the direct finish
Chris on the flash attempt
Chris on the flash attempt
Crimping up the headwall- so good!
Crimping up the headwall- so good!
Comments on Bat Attack Add Comment
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By Ben Sachs
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Direct finish puts the crux at the top, but keeps the difficulty consistent. Amazing!

By Ben Sachs
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Just got back from the Red, this could/would be 12+ there all day. Maybe we were too hasty in our downgrading? 12c could be reasonable for the direct finish ("New World Man")

By ChanVan
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

If you are really solid at the grade you might not need the RB- there is a bomber bolt about four feet below it to keep you off the deck- you would have to commit to the layback to clip the fixed wire, which seems bomber but is definitely small (#5 BD Steel)- the next pro is pretty damn far away though- might make the lower section more like 12a PG13...

By Tim Fisher
Jan 21, 2012

Due to lack of availibility of RBs I placed a glue in bolt in this hole. I will probably remove the lower bolt.

By gloomis
Aug 14, 2013

Anchor updated August 2013. I led the bottom 5.10 section with two small brass placements avoiding the need for two ropes. Tim Fisher says these are mental and would not hold a fall but I think they'd stand a chance. This would be a classic route anywhere, good from start to finish.