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 ADVANCED
Motorboat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard's Moan T 
Beginner's Bitch T 
Ben's Dilemma T,TR 
Can Opener T 
Motorboat T,TR 
Navy Route T,TR 
Shocker T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bastard's Moan 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Bastard's Moan

Description 

Located just left of Beginner's Bitch. Look for a wide crack up on the boulder with a slabby base. The crux of the route is getting past the slab and into the crack. Reach high for a decent hold, and then smear up the slab until you can step into the wide crack. Once in the crack, the climbing is easy and straight forward with plenty of rests. Almost felt like a chimney at times. Ends at a two bolt anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By bmv234
From: Camp Wood, TX
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Can be Top Roped from 2 bolts at the top easy run up around the right side.