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 ADVANCED
Bubba Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Basic Bubba Crack T 
Bubba Safari T 
Bubbarete T 
Cumberland Blues T 
Duck In A Noose S 
Dumbolt County T 
Eight Ball in the Side Pocket S,TR 
Face it Bubba T 
Fierce Face S 
Fired for Sandbagging S 
Hi-C S 
Immaculate Combustion S 
Man From Planet Zog, The S 
Wunderkind S 

Basic Bubba Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Parker, Garret Dudley (March 1987)
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: DaveB on Jul 10, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)

Description 

Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).

Location 

From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.

Protection 

Hands (and larger if you want). No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball...


Photos of Basic Bubba Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Fun spot
Fun spot
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route stays in crack and tops-out to the left of roof. Horizontal cam at top left face to protect TR'ing second and reduce potential anchor swing.)
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
Left around roof, ascend crack.
BETA PHOTO: Left around roof, ascend crack.
Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crack. (Note recently storm-destroyed tree.)
BETA PHOTO: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...
Upper section of the crack
Upper section of the crack

Comments on Basic Bubba Crack Add Comment
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By attila
Oct 3, 2010

You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. Had to descend to retrieve cams several times in order to reuse them higher up; the wide width of the crack gave me little other choice. An inconvenience on a worthwhile route.