Basic Bubba Crack
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BETA PHOTO: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
Harder than it looks.
Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).
From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.
Hands (and larger if you want). No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball...
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
BETA PHOTO: Left around roof, ascend crack.
BETA PHOTO: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...
Upper section of the crack
Oct 3, 2010
You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. Had to descend to retrieve cams several times in order to reuse them higher up; the wide width of the crack gave me little other choice. An inconvenience on a worthwhile route.