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Basement
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Basement Corner 
Cowboy Arete 
Dragon Pole 
Dragon with Matches 
Everybody's Welfare 
Hermit Crab 
High Class Quickdraw 
Just Five-Thirteen 
Lion Queen 
Phantom Fright 
Rodeo Clown 
Who Fooled Who? 

Basement 


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Lat, Long: 25.1048, 121.9228 Map
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Administrators: Nate Ball, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 22, 2011

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Above the Basement

Description 

A section of tall, beautiful rock at the southern end of Long Dong, the Basement is home to a few moderate trad routes, though all the classics are 5.10 or higher. It also has possibly the highest concentration of sport routes. Most of them are 5.10+ or higher, and some of the lines even still await a first free ascent.

The rock here is notably different from the rest of the area -- it is less frictiony and porous than areas like School Gate, holds tend to be less juggy and obvious, and there are few slabs. As a result, grades tend to be a bit steeper for the sport climbs, however, there are plenty of easy crack systems and cruiser routes if you go trad.

Be aware! The rock quality diminishes greatly after the twelfth meter or so, going from wonderfully solid and secure to loose, crispy, and chossy stone. Do not keep packs or onlookers directly under active routes, and a helmet for the belayer is a good idea.

The wall faces east-southeast, and gets direct sunlight until the early-mid afternoon. Bring sunscreen if you plan on early climbing! The waves and currents tend to be much stronger here than in the rest of Long Dong, so be alert especially during winter swells and typhoon season. Swimming is highly discouraged, unless you wish to give the local Coast Guard something to do for a change.


Getting There 

From the southern temple entrance, walk down the steps opposite the bathrooms, and follow the trail down. Look for the stone staircase that takes you down to the table of rock called the Backdoor. It's just around the corner from here. You will have to do some precarious scrambling and down-climbing. Non-climbers and animal-lovers beware.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Basement:
Rodeo Clown   5.10a     Trad, 60 feet   
High Class Quickdraw   5.10d     Sport, 80 feet   
Everybody's Welfare   5.11a     Sport, 75 feet   
Who Fooled Who?   5.11a     Sport, 85 feet   
Browse More Classics in Basement

Featured Route For Basement
route topo

Rodeo Clown 5.10a  International : Asia : ... : Basement
Identify an obvious clean dihedral below a roof on the far right of the Basement, after hopping up into the boulder-strewn area. The chains are located some 20 feet above the roof. Traverse through the low overhang and into the dihedral, then jam up into the roof, out the corner, and pull the crux which is getting up into the broken ledges above. Cruise from here to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Basement Slideshow Add Photo
Old Man Wall

Old Man Wall

The middle of the wall. One trad route goes all the way up the wall, with a dozen sport climbs all around it.

The middle of the wall. One trad route goes all th...

A little reflection on rock quality...

A little reflection on rock quality...