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{10} Backdoor

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Overhang T,TR 
Back Door Man T,TR 
Basement Corner T 
Big Rock Falling S 
Coach Demonstrates S 
Cowboy Arete S 
Dragon Pole T 
Dragon with Matches T 
Everybody's Welfare S 
Flying Teeth T,TR 
Hao Ren Alang S 
Harley Davidson S 
Hermit Crab S 
High Class Quickdraw S 
Into Thin Air TR 
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 
Just Five-Thirteen S 
Lava Tube S 
Lion Queen S 
Motorcycle S 
New Ferrari S 
Phantom Fright T 
Redhead S 
Rodeo Clown T 
Security Blanket T 
Sidestep T,TR 
Slab Sea T,TR 
Three-Legged Dog T 
Twisting S 
Under the Staircase TR 
Vita S 
Water Heater Route T,TR 
Who Fooled Who? S 

{10} Backdoor Rock Climbing 

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Location: 25.10477, 121.92301 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,006
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 22, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Backdoor is the southernmost area at Long Dong. It is accessed via the south parking area and is almost completely self-contained. It also has one of the highest concentrations of routes, especially hard sport. Thus, on most decent days it will be swarming with people... or, if you're lucky, completely empty. It is made up of four distinct areas: B1, B2, Old Man Wall, and Little Turtle Island. All of these areas have their own characteristics.

The first crag you come to, just below the stone stairs, is B1. It is fairly short and contains several beginner to moderate climbs of decent quality that can have anchors setup from above for top-roping parties. This is now a bolt-free zone, so trad gear is required for leading and top anchors. The shallow cave is oriented northeast, so it gets shade earlier than most of the rest of the crag. Routes here start at Under the Staircase and continue to Water Heater Route.

Once you climb down the groove in the rock to the narrow platform below, you have entered B2. This is the area that most people refer to when they say "Backdoor" as this is where the crowds congregate. Several short and rarely-done trad/boulder routes ascend the cracks from here back up to the platform above. Passing below these, you will step up onto the main deck. Here, just to the right of the Basement Corner, a tall, beautiful, grid-bolted cliff presents itself. Starting with Olive Branch, and continuing all the way to Hermit Crab and beyond, twenty sport routes are squeezed in here. They range in grade from hard 10's to easy 14's, and are all of fairly good quality, until you reach the far right side.

In October 2013, Alex Honnold sent an unfinished project that was thought to be 14-, but which he reported to be 13-.

The rock here is notably different from the rest of the area. It is less frictiony and porous than other areas, holds tend to be less juggy and obvious, and there are few slabs. As a result, grades tend to be a bit steeper for the sport climbs. However, there are a few high-quality trad climbs that break up the face. The rock here used to be chossy, but the crowds have done a good job of cleaning things up. However, to the right of Rodeo Clown, the rock gets nasty again. Check out the fallen slab with a bolt in it that perfectly illustrates the "big" overall problem of instability at Long Dong.

If you continue up and over the boulders you will arrive at the oft-wet section called Old Man Wall. Here you will find a dozen more routes ranging from 10's to 13's. This section is rarely climbed, although the routes are supposedly decent quality, if you don't mind half of your holds being glued on.

Little Turtle Mountain, on the other side of the gully, is almost never climbed. There are some leftover relics of early climbing here, as well as the curving weakness of Three Legged Dog that takes you up to the scenic platform above.

When tides are calm, pretty much only in the summer, you can walk out Crocodile Cape and swim in the inlet. Or bust a backflip off of the snout. You could also traverse from here over to the Cathouse. Just be careful though as there are strong currents and sneaker waves.

Getting There 

Previously, the area was accessed from the southern entrance by walking down an obvious dirt path to a stone staircase. This staircase has since been destroyed, leaving a rumble pile that you have to down-climb in order to get to the B1 area, with the usual scramble down to B2 below. This will be updated if/when a new access route is established.

Climbing Season

For the Long Dong (Dragon Cave) area.

Weather station 7.2 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in {10} Backdoor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for {10} Backdoor:
Redhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in {10} Backdoor

Featured Route For {10} Backdoor
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock & Ice

Big Rock Falling 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Asia : Taiwan : ... : {10} Backdoor
This route was published in a Rock & Ice magazine long ago, which was the original inspiration for Matt Robertson to come to Taiwan...Start the same as for Dragon with Matches, clipping way left. At some non-intuitive moment, step over to the left onto the blank face. Grovel your way up to some better holds, which take you into an awesome but short right-leaning crack. From the horizontal, scope the business above. Make a few powerful moves to get to the arete, then slap and ed...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of {10} Backdoor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "People are below. Do not throw stones" ...
"People are below. Do not throw stones" ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Man Wall
Old Man Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: B1 stairs
B1 stairs
Rock Climbing Photo: panorama
Rock Climbing Photo: A little reflection on rock quality...
A little reflection on rock quality...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the Basement
Above the Basement

Comments on {10} Backdoor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Mar 6, 2014
A stick clip is highly recommended for climbing any of the hard sport routes here. The bolts aren't necessarily high, but you have to step onto a 2-meter bench and then pull super-awkward bouldery moves to mount the face on most routes.

Or just do what 阿郎 does and swing a bight of rope into your draw...
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Feb 13, 2016
As of Feb. 13th, 2016, the stone staircase that led down to this area was intentionally destroyed. We assume this was done by the NE Coast Scenic Area folks to prevent access to the fishing below. This was done without any forewarning and no note was left. That's how things are done around here.

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