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Oddly enough, this route is found in the corner of the Basement, where the wall turns eastward before dropping down to the scummy pools below the approach overhang. Start just below the bolt line and move through some dicey rock. Get some gear whenever you can, there isn't much to be had. Walk up the chunky slab, with some horizontals on your right, until you reach the base of a chimney and a slightly more vertical section. Protection is scarce, so get creative. Continue up the butress which comes to a point below a roof. Old manky slings and ropes are your anchor here. Thread the rap ring and get off this rig.
Not recommended for new trad leaders. Protection is scarce and finicky.
Southern corner of the Basement. Locate the black sling around the tip of the buttress 20 meters up.
Lead: Gear to 1" (or 7")
Anchor: rap slings on horn
By Huang Li Ting
May 1, 2013
My first trad lead in LD , probable not the most ideal route for beginners when it comes to gear placement ,but still,it's an awesome route for building up your guts.