Bart's Way  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 80 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Goldstein & Calkins 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  david goldstein on Oct 19, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bart Calkins at Shelf Road

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

In memoriam Bart Calkins (1947-2007).

An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.

Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.

The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.

Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.

Location 

On the wall which forms a corner just to the left of Shinbuster, there is an obvious, diagonaling crack/corner which passes a mouth-shaped pod. Bart's Way follows this feature, starting a ways downhill of the start of Shinbuster and ending above the vicinity of the start of Shinbuster.

Protection 

Standard Lumpy rack mostly small-medium nuts and fingerish cams.