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Bart Calkins at Shelf Road
In memoriam Bart Calkins (1947-2007).
An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.
Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.
The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.
Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.
On the wall which forms a corner just to the left of Shinbuster
, there is an obvious, diagonaling crack/corner which passes a mouth-shaped pod. Bart's Way follows this feature, starting a ways downhill of the start of Shinbuster
and ending above the vicinity of the start of Shinbuster
Standard Lumpy rack mostly small-medium nuts and fingerish cams.