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Bart's Way 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Goldstein & Calkins 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: david goldstein on Oct 19, 2007
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Bart Calkins at Shelf Road
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Description 

In memoriam Bart Calkins (1947-2007).

An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.

Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.

The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.

Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.


Location 

On the wall which forms a corner just to the left of Shinbuster, there is an obvious, diagonaling crack/corner which passes a mouth-shaped pod. Bart's Way follows this feature, starting a ways downhill of the start of Shinbuster and ending above the vicinity of the start of Shinbuster.


Protection 

Standard Lumpy rack mostly small-medium nuts and fingerish cams.



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