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The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Balance Queen T 
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Byzantine T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Crack T 
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 

Bartleby -(Central Slab) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,049
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Jul 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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On the lead. Never get tired of this route. 3 star...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a short, right facing corner to a roof, gain some handholds under the roof and pull around to the left. Climb a left arching fingercrack up to fixed anchors.

Location 

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, emphasis on finger and hand sized pieces.


Photos of Bartleby -(Central Slab) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Bartleby, as seen from below. Gain th...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Bartleby, as seen from below. Gain th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice crack above the roof.
The nice crack above the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finish off a great climb with wild bluberries righ...
Finish off a great climb with wild bluberries righ...

Comments on Bartleby -(Central Slab) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The fingercrack after the roof is amazing. The roof is also really fun.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011

Don't be intimidated by the roof. The gear is excellent and the stance you will find after you pull up and around to the left is very secure. You do have to PULL though. What a great little route--too bad the upper crack isn't longer.
By Dave Pfurr
Sep 21, 2012

Agree with the above comments. Great pro at the roof. No particularly big cams needed. Really is a sweet route.
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a contender for my favorite route during a weekend full of climbing here. Great fist jam over the top makes pulling the roof easier than you would think. And while you don't necessarily need any big gear, I did place a #4 C4 in the wide crack down low after the wedged block, and a #3 right before the roof.

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