Barretts Cove Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Dirty gully that provides access to the upper left...
This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.
Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.
The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.
Park along ROute 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Barretts Cove Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Barretts Cove Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Barretts Cove Cliff:
Equinox 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Poison Ivy 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Old Spice 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Spider 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Old Stud 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Barretts Cove Cliff
Fourth of July 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Camden Hills
: Barretts Cove Cliff
5 feet right of the Poison Ivy anchor on Broadway, a couple face moves leads to a thin finger crack that fades in and out. When the crack fades out climb to a bolt, then straight up the face to some pockets where gear can be found. Climb a short vertical section to two rusty but beefy bolts....[more] Browse More Classics in ME
BETA PHOTO: Anchor at the top of Charlotte's Crack, pitch 2
Ice at Barrett's in thin conditions...
Ice, about to melt out tomorrow @45 degrees.
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 6, 2012
What is the hard one to the left of Charlie's Crack?