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Barretts Cove Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Barretts Cove Cliff Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.24696, -69.08472 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,630
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Barrett's Cove Cliff from Barrett's Cove (...


This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.

Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.

The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.

Getting There 

Park along Route 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake Megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes. [...and arrives at the base of the cliff near the climb "Poison Ivy". note added by R Hall]

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Barretts Cove Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Barretts Cove Cliff:
Poison Ivy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Clamdigger Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Equinox   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Old Spice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Queen Charlotte   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Spider (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Old Stud   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Obscure Object of Desire   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Barretts Cove Cliff

Featured Route For Barretts Cove Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Spider.

Spider (mid-cliff START) 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  ME : Camden Hills : Barretts Cove Cliff
Climbs a face then up cracks to finish just to the left of Clothesline. Crux is the lower face. Originally rated 5.7, with bolted protection on the crux moves. Well, one is a bolt, the most important one. The other two are ancient pitons. Don't lean back on those! Good gear above....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Barretts Cove Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice, about to melt out tomorrow @45 degrees.
Ice, about to melt out tomorrow @45 degrees.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice at Barrett's in thin conditions...
Ice at Barrett's in thin conditions...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dirty gully that provides access to the upper left...
BETA PHOTO: Dirty gully that provides access to the upper left...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor at the top of Charlotte's Crack, pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Anchor at the top of Charlotte's Crack, pitch 2

Comments on Barretts Cove Cliff Add Comment
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By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 6, 2012
What is the hard one to the left of Charlie's Crack?

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