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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Unsorted Routes:

Baroque 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Scott, Philippe Wheelock
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: D-Storm on Apr 7, 2010
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Description 

This fingers splitter would be quite popular if it wasn't for a short bit of steep choss at the bottom. The hollow block/flake isn't that bad except for a crumbly move to gain an easy ramp at its top. However, most people probably wouldn't want to climb this more than once or twice.

The finger crack is in some lovely varnish. It starts as tight .5 Camalots and tapers to several feet of #0 Metolious TCUs (purple). With face holds just where you need them, there are some power moves and some balance moves.


Location 

Take a right where the trail meets the cliff, near the corner of "Neat". Look for a sandy, left-facing ramp about 30 feet right of a splitter off-width, which is in the Bloom guide. "Baroque" is the left of twin cracks at the top of the ramp that lead to an obvious flat ledge on the varnished face. There is a plaque at the base. The ramp is gained by climbing a hand crack on the right side of a large block perched on a rotten band. (I don't know if the left side of the block a thin corner crack is better; I doubt it.) If you come to the petroglyphs along the trail you've gone about 150 feet too far right.


Protection 

#0 Metolius TCU (x2 to sew it up), #1 TCU (x2), .4 Camalot (x3), .5 Camalot (x2); and #2 Camalot (x2), #3 Camalot and #4 Camalot, and two or three long runners for the start (one double-length runner is useful).



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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 13, 2010

i loved this route! new school-ish, face moves with bomber pro!

By philippe wheelock
Apr 30, 2012

This route was put up by Dan Scott with a belay from me; with Dan cleaning and leading on the same attempt. Sweet 'cept for the start. Baroque is slang for Puerto Rican-at first it seems a little dirty but when you get to know it its all good! Dan died in a fall at J-Tree in 2007 and is sorely missed.

By D-Storm
Oct 17, 2012

Thanks for the history, Philippe. Sorry to hear about Dan.