This gorgeous hunk of granite is the preeminent spire in this sector of the Sawtooths, and is home to several noteworthy routes. The ubiquitous Fred Beckey, accompanied by Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland, were the first to the summit of Baron Spire (which they dubbed Old Smoothie) and several other formations in the vicinity. One of Baron's most unique and imposing aspects is its summit block, which is actually a massive boulder perched atop the ridge crest. This 120' tall block is composed of bullet orange granite which overhangs on all sides and is entirely absent of cracks. Over three days in the summer of 1949, Beckey and companions surmounted the summit block via a 22 bolt ladder, which to this day remains the only access to the summit.
From Redfish Lake, hike up the manicured trail to the Alpine Lakes and continue over a small pass and drop into the Baron Lakes. It's approximately 9 miles, but generally goes quickly and takes between 4-5 hours.
Browse More Classics in Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie:
Lawdogs' Lament 5.10- A1-2 Aid, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Tall Boys and Breakfast Burritos 5.10c A1-2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Deliverance 5.10c A2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie
Lawdogs' Lament 5.10- A1-2 ID : The Sawtooth Range : Baron Spire aka Old Smoothi...
The obvious major chimney cleaving the southeast face. Named in honor of an unfortunate encounter with the local law enforcement and our friend's narrow escape from their heavy hand. An excellent, sustained route with great climbing throughout, especially the incredible third pitch! Scramble up ledges and corners 50’ to a great flat ledge left of the chimney proper.Pitch 1: Squirm up the chimney for almost a full ropelength. The crux is a short ways up, with some squeeze moves. Chockstone bulges...[more] Browse More Classics in ID