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Bam Bam S 
Barney's Crack T 
Bear, The T 
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Stoneage Struggle T 
Thin Wires T 
Wally World T 

Barney's Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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This is a great route and an East A classic! Tricky moves up a slab lead to varied and interesting face climbing. Finish up the nice steep finger crack then mantle to a small ledge with bolts.


This is between Gorilla Crack and The Squeeze.


Blue - yellow Aliens, small - medium stoppers, 8 bolts.

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By Ben Kiessel
Nov 14, 2007

This is one of the best routes at East A.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 21, 2010

Heady start for sure. Some of those bolts could be replaced if anyone's looking for something to do/put money into.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Anybody know why all the bolts on Barney's Crack looked bashed in?
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 16, 2012

I've heard a story as to why the bolts look so bad, but I haven't heard it first hand, so enough said. All I know for sure is that the bolts need to be replaced. This is a stellar climb that needs new hardware. If anyone has the time and money, this is a worthy project. Thanks.
By knowbuddy
Oct 19, 2012

Pretty poor quality rock and shitty bolts make this an interesting pitch. Looked like there were a good amount of freshly broken holds on it yesterday .
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Nov 27, 2012

Several bolts that were in the worst shape have been replaced, though the old studs still need to be removed if anyone has a steel chisel, I'd be happy to do it myself.

What do you folks think of replacing the first bolt with the mangled hanger? If it were replaced ,the draw when clipped would not hang over that hand hold and could potentially alter how the route climbs, is this nit picky or a legit concern?
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Dec 11, 2012

First bolt needs to be moved 6" to the right for sure.
By -mn
Dec 12, 2012

Or 12" lower so you don't crater if you blow it. I'd talk to Joel and Tim? (FA) though, before you go and "re-place" anything else on this route. Sam - are you going to saw those studs off and patch the holes? Yeah, this is one of the best - the last 20ft. anyway - and funkiest routes up there. ..miles
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2015

Ok, sorry 'bout those lame ass bolts, but here's the story: I don't know if anyone has replaced those bolts yet, if not, I will.

It was maybe 30 years or more ago when I did this route- probably the second half of the 1980s. Sorry, but I can't remember who was climbing with me. Sometimes I would get my little sister to hike up there and belay. I think this might have been the first route I drilled with my new Bosch. I was psyched to drill on lead, but I hadn't bolted too many routes at that point, so that's why I drilled that first bolt in the wrong spot. I may have been holding on to that crimper while drilling. Bolting on lead doesn't always produce the best routes, I was just trying to get the bolt as high as possible.

I can't really see why some think the start is heady or why the bolt would be moved down. People might be doing those first moves wrong or something. Anyway, the bolt could be moved left or right a few inches. I used a good climbing bolt for the first bolt, because that's the crux of the whole route, and my thinking was that if you could get past there, you shouldn't fall on the easier terrain above.

Another reason I used those $0.29 pieces of crap from Kroegers is that a guy can set them in the hole with one hand whilst hanging on to the rock with the other (you need two hands to get a Rawl 5 piece started. Plus they were cheap). At the time, I thought those bolts would be totally adequate - I didn't even bother placing them to full depth. I think previously, I had been using quarter inch split shaft little things that I got for free, from a surplus. The route, Crime and Punishment used to be equipped with, like, 5 of those, it was basically a free solo back then. Terrifying to lead. Anyway, the climbing world was at an awkward stage of evolution at that time. And Durango in a bubble, as always.

I guess the reason they got so beat up too, is just the lead bolting. At the first bolt, I was able to let go with both hands to place that one. I did the whole route entirely from stances, (no hooks or anything) and most of the time, I was just barely able to swing the hammer effectively, or accurately, and I just beat the crap out of them. Plus, they're made out of shite steel that is easily mangled.

What can I say? I was like 18 or 19. I did't know nothin' about construction. There wasn't no sport climbing yet. Ya didn't need pro until you got into injury territory and risk was cool. Now everybody wants shining paths of sport glory.

Oh, and there's this quirk: I remember getting the bolts in and going for the crack at the top. It got hard enough toward the top, where I couldn't stop to get any gear and couldn't lean over and see into the crack, so I tried that scary mantle at the top with a big runout. I planned on going back with a Tricam ,or some nonsense, but in the mean time, my friend Joel rapped down and placed that last bolt. I was like, ok I'll just clip that.

Def one of the coolest routes at East A.

In fact, I think the anchor is a couple of those old, threaded, split shaft 1/4" x 2" bolts and one 3/8" Rawl. Totally bomber!
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2015

Protect the crack with small and meduim stoppers. You will phuk yerself with cams.

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