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Unsorted Routes:

Barney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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The last bolt is a bit wild to clip, but still a g...

Description 

Third bolt line (both 12s in between) left of Partners in Crime. It is bolts to chains along a hand crack. This is a crowded and popular route along a so-so bolted crack. You could trad lead it, but the crack appeared manky.

Protection 

Bolted crack. Would probably take gear, but why bother? 13? bolts.


Photos of Barney Slideshow Add Photo
Ed enjoying the first half of Barney
Ed enjoying the first half of Barney
Ryan below the second bolt on Barney.
Ryan below the second bolt on Barney.

Comments on Barney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2013
By CLR
Jan 3, 2003

In 1995, I bolted this climb solo; Sence then, I have retro-bolted it twice. The first time was right after I led the first clean assent; That day I added 4 or 5 bolts to this climb. The second time I retroed this line was in ?1997?, I added a last bolt because not many people would climb straight to the anchors.FA: Carie and BobMy first Rabbit was named after this climb; My second Rabbit named another climb in Newlin Creak (Bam-bam).
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The route now has seven bolts. Fun stemming and jamming down low leads to harder climbing near the top. I may have done a more difficult variation by moving out of the crack to the right, but I felt the moves near the top were harder than 5.9.
By SurlyClimber
Mar 27, 2006

While this route is described as a "bolted crack climb", it is not in reality a crack climb. The thing is climbed on jugs and pockets with nary a jam. Several bolts with homemade hangers need to be replaced, and the anchor bolts are little eyebolts that also need to be replaced.
By Andrew Iltis
From: Denver, CO
Jun 12, 2007

Yea, toward the top I kind of got lost wondering which way to go. I was really pumped after finishing this one, but barely broke a sweat on the nearby 11s. Strange route but hey, it still goes up.
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Jul 15, 2008

Bob and Carrie added some bolts and removed the old anchors. This makes the total # of bolts around 13 ish.
By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2008

After going back and climbing this route with the new extension, I definitely feel that it is a 5.10. Barney now goes all the way up to the top of the cliff with 3-4 more bolts past the old anchor and is pretty sustained. Not that it was a bad climb before, but now it's a Sand Gulch classic. Nice job, Bob and Carrie!
By Adam Caimi
From: CANON CITY, CO
Oct 18, 2008

Climbed this yesterday with some friends. We never did find the anchors on this one and had to do some interesting down climbing. We used "the Book" which told us it had 7 bolts, appears to have more now (13?). Definitely harder than 5.9 at the top as we climbed the Opportunist and Enterprise prior to this (solid 5.9's) and cruised up them.
Some beta on location of anchors would be nice. It seemed to have a 13 foot lead out at the top to the anchors. Is this right?
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Go right following a nice, new bolted line that finishes up at a twin cold shut anchor. The moves to get there are well protected and not harder than 10a. So the route is in fact not a 5.9.
By jcntrl
From: Smoulder, CO
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Top half of this (route extension) did not feel like 5.9 and is comparable with other 10s in the area. First half is 5.9 though. Getting to the anchor was a bit confusing; there's one on the left and right? I chose right; a shoulder-length runner helps with rope drag on the last bolt prior to the diagonal traverse to anchor. Pretty enjoyable climbing, varied techniques throughout and nicely sustained with rewarding rests.
By Noah G
From: Alma, Co
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree the extension on this didn't make sense (went right) and didn't really seem worth the effort. I could see it freaking someone out new to leading and seeking this grade. Bottom half was fun.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2012

Ha ha, 5.9 in your dreams. The bottom was cruiser and probably 5.9, but as others mentioned, the sustained nature of the route and the difficulty of the top.... Having climbed Suburbia (5.10b/c) and Enterprise (5.9+), Barney is tough! I'll leave comments to others, since I was climbing it in the dark with a headlamp. Choosing anchors at the top is definitely interesting....
By John Dubya
Jan 18, 2013

Whatever the rating, it is not 5.9. Also, it should be noted that the hanger on the bolt protecting the crux is bent as if has been fallen on too many times. As well, the bolting at the top seems contrived and one of the anchor bolts is loose. Skip it.
By Forrest L.
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Barney is a weird route. Every move truly is 5.9 or less, but it's very easy to go slightly off route onto all the 5.10 that everyone is talking about. 5.9+.

If you think it's harder, you didn't find the best way up or didn't rest when you could.

Hint: Two slight traverses.

Good route.