This is on of a few unbolted cracks at Barn Bluff. It protects well until the last 10 feet or so to the bolted anchors left of the crack. Good fingers/hand crack climbing with great foot holds. The sloper/off width section near the top is the crux. This route is sandy and chossy as it is not climbed often. Fun climb.
A set of nuts and medium sized cams is required to lead this route. 2 bolt anchors at the top.
Cleaning Barney Rubble, a.k.a. Birch Tree Crack
BETA PHOTO: Placing the #4 in the pod, above the ledge, ...
|Comments on Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
May 30, 2007
This climb is okay. It's sandy and chossy near the big hole. The gear is allright up until that point.
|By Bill Fulton|
From: St Paul
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This one always feels at least as hard as "No Whippin Boys" to me, probably due to its steepness. The bottom half has small/medium gear in blocky (i.e., fractured) rock. The crux is going from the last ledge to the huecos; I can't find a good stance until the huecos. My gear beta for the crux: #4 Camelot in the pod at last ledge, then reach high to place a .5 Camelot as high as possible. Climb up to the hueco jugs (they're in there) where you can place a #3 Camelot behind you, or just place #1 Camelot higher up.