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 ADVANCED
The Cleo Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Face right of Barndoor Project? TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Barndoor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ???
Season: All year with the obvious best months being Fall and Spring
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Nov 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Dmitriy leads Barndoor onsight on Halloween day. ...

Description 

Starts out with 15 feet of broken rock (large detatched block)and easy moves to a large ledge. Off ledge climb crack and edges trending left to left side of square buttress top.


Location 

Prominent crack up highest buttress making up upper rim of Cleo's Amp. If you are standing at base of Cleo's Needle looking NNW and up at the main access gully this buttress is on the left at about 10 o'clock.


Protection 

Gear is more then adequate but maybe slightly blind at crux move at exactly middle mark of route. Small to middle sized stoppers to small hand sized cams. Just be sure to protect yourself from the lurking ledge below.



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By ShannaBerry
From: Chicago, IL
May 19, 2014

Can't believe this climb only has a few stars and no comments. This climb was incredible! Challenging and equally rewarding. It took moves I didn't know I had, and gained me some serious points with my crew. Only the most experience climbers even attempted it, the rope hung empty almost the entire day, and for my last climb of the day I figured, screw it, why not? And shocked myself by ascending the beast. It was one of the most rewarding moments of my short climbing career. I've also never been so spent after a route so short. This will take it out of you man, so if you're like me and want to leave EVERYTHING you have on the crag, this is the climb for you.

By Shane Wallace
4 days ago

The series of moves has to be exact. Couldn't climb it when I attempted it in May, came back in July and nailed it. You just have to get the right foot and hand work down.