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Franklin Gorge
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Barnacle Bill 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 22, 2008
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Chris Egress on the classic Barnacle Bill.

Description 

Possibly the most popular (and for good reason) route of this grade here. The first 1/2 is steep climbing on good holds but don't dally because the pump is sneaking up on you. The crux is nailing the long moves to the big thankfully positive horizontal that cuts across this part of the wall. It isn't quite over yet with a few more technical moves remain before the shuts.


Location 

From the buttress with a slot you can walk through, go down and around to the far side and you will find this long route starting from the lowest point on the far side going straight up. Walk the Plank share its start but breaks left after a few bolts.


Protection 

9 draws



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By Matthew K
From: Charlottesville, VA
Mar 1, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Does anyone know why the route is tagged?