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Solstice Celebration Wall
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Solstice Celebration 

Barn Dance 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett & Dennis Jensen, 1987
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 25, 2012
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Barn Dance is the red line, Solstice Celebration i...

Description 

P1) Starts at the toe of the buttress, and left of the route "Solstice Celebration". Climb up a right-leaning crack with some loose flakes to a stance. Place some final small pro at your feet and bust out left onto a large sloping knob and gritty face (10b R). Above, and easy handcrack leads to a sloping area and a gear belay. 5.10b R, 80'.

P2) From the belay, head up the obvious fingers/tips lieback crack (crux, 5.11a) to a series of small roofs. Step left underneath the second roof and pull over on gritty jugs. Two bolts protect the slab above (5.10a R). A final, runout crux above involves stemming up into a flared, gritty offwidth corner with marginal gear (5.9+?, #3-4 BD stoppers, #1 ballnut).


Location 

Starts at the toe of the Solstice Celebration Wall, left of the namesake route. 2 rope Rappel from a bolted anchor to climbers' right of the final ledge (shared with Solstice Celebration 5.10c).


Protection 

Doubles from tips to hand-size, 2 bolts (3/8"), some micros or ballnuts might protect the final moves on P2.



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By Richard Shore
Jun 25, 2012

While the 5.11a crux of the route is well-protected, many other sections are not, including some heady 5.10- face climbing. The rock quality is not the best on this route, with some seriously grainy sections. I took a hefty whipper pulling over the second roof when a brick-sized foothold departed from the rock. The original 1/4" bolts on this route have been replaced with 3/8" stainless fatties.