Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Critic's Choice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice 
Barley Route 
BBC from Cleveland 
Belly Full of Bad Berries 
Break a Leg 
Bunny Slope 
Critic's Choice 
Cult Classic 
Ed's World 
Fisticuffs 
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The 
Life.... 
Mr. Critical 
New Life or Second Life 
Ruby Flame 
Sabrina 
Second Choice 
Sgt. Fish Scale 
Wrench Route  
Unsorted Routes:

Barley Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 2002
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: nick.laws on Apr 30, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the wide section on Barley Route

Description 

This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).

I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.



A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet of the ground. Easy down climb.


Location 

This route is right of the leaning pillar located where the approach trail meets the wall. Look for the twin crack start above a few feet of ledgy, easy climbing. The right crack arches to the left to meet the anchors. Climb the left crack once they diverge.


Protection 

The first half takes a few BD 2's & 3's with one smaller piece in the start. From the good ledge the crack behind the flake starts 3" and quickly goes 4" and then 5". There is a two bolt anchor at the top.



Comments on Barley Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By the professor
Jul 25, 2013

FA by Matt Barley and Andrew Christiansen in April 2002