The route is on the east face of Reynolds, traversing under the obvious roof.
You can use either of two first pitches to get there:
(1) The first pitch of Moors Crossing. This is the obvious, SE-facing trough about 40 feet right of Penis Dimension. Once you get past the obvious difficulties on this pitch, go up through a tunnel and continue traversing up and right behind the big flake until you are directly below the left end of the big roof (may want to do in two pitches to avoid drag). Move up toward roof until you find the obvious belay. If you aren't comfortable with a "Vedauwoo 5.6", I wouldn't use this approach. I may be a pansy, but it seemed a little weird and non-5.6 to me. You might want a couple of bigger cams (#4 Camalots) for the top of this pitch.
(2) About 40 right of Moors Crossing is an obvious 5.2 chimney. At end of chimney, continue toward roof until you find belay.
BBT traverses straight right under the roof about 80 feet to the exit chimney. Protection is good and it's a pretty cool position. It isn't as slabby as it looks. The crux is getting into the chimney, and then getting out. There is a crack on the left wall of the chimney (about 8 feet up) that takes a small cam. Grunt your way up and belay. There isn't much for pro on the belay, but if you move back a little, it'll be impossible to be pulled off (although a heavy second might pull you into the crack a bit).
Walk off to the back, and then carefully around to the right. You might wander a bit your first time.
Mostly smaller cams and nuts. You can use a #3 Camalot near end of traverse. This will increase drag but make an inexperienced second much happier.
|By Darin Lang|
Dec 5, 2001
I agree that the first pitch of Moor Crossing can feel "non-5.6ish". It can be humorous, however, to watch someone lead this for the first time. I know my partner and I would have given any spectators at least a day's worth of laughs.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 6, 2001
I am not actually the Anonymous Coward but rather the one who led the first 5.6 pitch while the Anonymous Coward giggled and belayed. I suspect the pitch is closer to 5.6 if you lay back the monster crack however, to say that placing gear from this lay back is dicey is a wild understatement. Instead, I groveled and squirmed my way up inside the crack. While not aesthetic, it is secure. Also, if you happen to be anything larger than a 42" shoulder and taller than, say, 5'9" don't try to finish the pitch by going behind the choke stone.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 10, 2006
It can definitely be done if you're taller than 5'9". I've done it, I'm 6'1". Just be ... flexible.