Barely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (Eagle Hardware) and 5.11d corner (Golden Eagle) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.
Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.
The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.
This is midway between Eagle Hardware and Golden Eagle.
Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.
Finishing up the bizzleness....
Launching into the bizzleness....
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 7, 2010
Love the name!
Oct 14, 2010
The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Aug 31, 2011
Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle!
So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling!
Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top.
My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled!
Aug 31, 2011
Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex!
|By Joe Collins|
Oct 24, 2011
It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me.