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Barely Eagle 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Team Shred
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, autumn
Page Views: 1,540
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Looking up at Barely Eagle, with draws on it.

  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Barely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (Eagle Hardware) and 5.11d corner (Golden Eagle) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.

    Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.

    The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.

    Location 

    This is midway between Eagle Hardware and Golden Eagle.

    Protection 

    Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.


    Photos of Barely Eagle Slideshow Add Photo
    Finishing up the bizzleness....
    Finishing up the bizzleness....
    Launching into the bizzleness....
    Launching into the bizzleness....

    Comments on Barely Eagle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Doug Lintz
    From: Kearney, NE
    Oct 7, 2010

    Love the name!
    By Pinklebear
    Oct 14, 2010

    The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder.
    By Alex Shainman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2011

    Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle!

    So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling!

    Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top.

    My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled!
    By Pinklebear
    Aug 31, 2011

    Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex!
    By Joe Collins
    Oct 24, 2011

    It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me.
    By Chris. T.
    From: Longmont, Co.
    Aug 24, 2014

    This is an awesome line, and a great addition to Eagle Rock.
    The first half is really fun, and the upper headwall is classic.
    I didn't see a piton at the start, so I used the first 2 bolts above the belay for 'Eagle Hardware', then moved right for 7 bolts on 'Barely Eagle' (9 bolts total, long sling on bolt 2).
    The bolts are snug and solid right now, and the rock has cleaned up very nicely.
    Thanks for another fantastic Front Range Sport route from Team Shred!