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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The 
Black Crack 
Black Lung 
Book of Solemnity, The 
Chicken Delight 
Double Vee 
Dresden 
Final Gesture 
Jolt 
Kim Jung Il 
Layton's Ascent 
Lichen Delight 
Lichen It a Lot 
Nomad Crack 
Nutcracker 
Off the Hook 
Retaliation 
Upper Refuse 
Webster's Unabridged 
Youth Challenge 

Barber Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

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Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.

Description 

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.


Getting There 

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barber Wall:
Upper Refuse   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   
Final Gesture   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Black Lung   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Layton's Ascent   5.9     Trad, 80 feet   
Retaliation   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   
Chicken Delight   5.9     Trad, 75 feet   
Nutcracker   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Double Vee   5.9+     Trad   
The Book of Solemnity   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   
Nomad Crack   5.10b     Trad   
Youth Challenge   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet   
Black Crack   5.10b PG13     Trad, 150 feet   
Lichen It a Lot   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Webster's Unabridged   5.10d PG13     Trad   
Dresden   5.11a PG13     Trad, 75 feet   
Lichen Delight   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Arete.   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet   
Off the Hook   5.11+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Jolt   5.11d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Kim Jung Il   5.12b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in Barber Wall

Featured Route For Barber Wall
Henry Barber on Lichen Delight, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.

Lichen Delight 5.11a  NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall
Wow. What a climb. First I'll say this: Climb it because it rules!Lichen Delight is Cathedral 5.11 crack climbing at its best. This is a great way to break in to 5.11 climbing at Cathedral. Though its not soft in the grade, it is well protected and as moderate as 5.11s get at this cliff. Lichen Delight is also much longer than the other classic 5.11a: Airation. As you might guess, this one is a test of endurance rather than a few hard moves.There is an obscure 2nd pitch, but most people will rap...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Barber Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wall. <br /> <br />(scan)

Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...

Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...

Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...

Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.

Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of U...