Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.
The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.
This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.
Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.
To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Barber Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barber Wall:
Black Lung 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Retaliation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Nutcracker 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Dresden 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 75'
The Arete. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Off the Hook 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Jolt 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Barber Wall
Nomad Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NH
: Cathedral Ledge
: Barber Wall
Nomad Crack is a tricky route that starts straight up for 20ft before following the crack right. This right-angling crack contains the route's thought-provoking crux. Many people undercling through the crux, but I stayed low, using marginal locks but pretty good small feet to gain the finger-lock that marks the end of the crux section. After the crux, head straight up again following the crack past at least one more tricky move to gain the summit.This is one of the only routes in this section th...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages