Barber Wall Rock Climbing
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...
The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.
This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.
Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate sport routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.
To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Barber Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Barber Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Barber Wall:
Black Lung 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Retaliation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Nutcracker 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Dresden 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 75'
The Arete. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Off the Hook 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Jolt 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Barber Wall
Black Lung 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NH
: *Cathedral Ledge
: Barber Wall
If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamm...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
By Russ Keane
Sep 22, 2015
This wall is absolutely beautiful. It's got this black, dark, steep vibe... and is quite secluded by Cathedral standards..... You can rap down and then there's this great giant flat ledge beneath the climbs
So many great NH cracks and pods (and a little of my finger blood)