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Barber Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The 
Big Deal Rock Climb 
Black Crack 
Black Lung 
Book of Solemnity, The 
Chicken Delight 
Double Vee 
Dresden 
Final Gesture 
Hatful of Hollow 
Jolt 
Kim Jung Il 
Layton's Ascent 
Lichen Delight 
Lichen It a Lot 
Medusa 
Nomad Crack 
Nutcracker 
Off the Hook 
Perseus  
Reconciliation 
Retaliation 
Upper Refuse 
Webster's Unabridged 
Youth Challenge 

Barber Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.

Description 

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.


Getting There 

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barber Wall:
Upper Refuse   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Black Lung   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Final Gesture   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Retaliation   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Layton's Ascent   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Chicken Delight   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 75'   
Double Vee   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
Nutcracker   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
The Book of Solemnity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Black Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 150'   
Youth Challenge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Nomad Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
Lichen It a Lot   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dresden   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 75'   
Lichen Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Arete.   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   
Off the Hook   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jolt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Barber Wall

Featured Route For Barber Wall
Ernie Hansche aka Dad laying back in the crux of Retaliation...

Retaliation 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall
This climb is one of those that the first time you look at it it makes you feel like you must climb it. It speaks to you and draws you in. That is both good and bad: good because it is a stellar route, bad because it can draw you in when you are not ready. There have been a few injuries on this climb over the past few years due to people getting pumped, stuffing in less than optimal gear, and then falling from the powerful pumpy layback crux.It's a great climb, so by all means climb it, but be s...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Barber Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wall. <br /> <br />(scan)
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of U...
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
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