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 ADVANCED
Upper Devil's Playground
Routes Sorted
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Barbed Wire 
Crack to Nowhere 
Crackpod 
Day of Wrath 
Formicae 
Gut Bomb 
Lois 
Meat Milkshake 
New Shoes 
Panhandle , The 
Sarah Palin's Drill 
Tunnel Vision 
Unsorted Routes:

Barbed Wire 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Kelman and Ben Boykin, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: rob.calm on Sep 28, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Handcrack at the start of Barbed Wire.

Description 

Climb the nice, but short, handcrack formed by the blade. The angle then eases and the crack widens. Follow it to a chimney. Slither along the bottom of the chimney, as if crawling under barbed wire, to the easy-looking vertical exit crack (crux), which is size-dependent. The bigger you are the harder it will be.


Location 

Barbed Wire, Day of Wrath, and The Panhandle are accessed by scrambling up the northeast side of Limbo Rock and moving to the southeast side along the ledge at top of Formicae. There are a series of cracks from moderate to huge along the ledge. Barbed Wire starts at the third crack on the wall, which has a large blade of rock on the left side of the crack. See the beta photo for The Panhandle.


Protection 

Stoppers, #0.5-#5 Camalots.



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