Barbed Wire Corner  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Tom Armstrong 1980's Submitted By:  lee hansche on Apr 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: the route goes up the corner between the two sharp...

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Description 

This is just what i was looking for when i set forth to climb it. That being said i don't think many people will agree with me on my quality rating cause its not what most people look for in a climb. Loose, crumbly rock and less than perfect gear (placed in that questionable rock) make it a bit sketchy. I like this in a climb so long as the moves are fun and the moves on this route are very fun and engaging. If you like that kind of thing this route is for you!

Stick clip the low bolt and climb from the left (below Electric Socks) up and right past crumbling pinches to a possible gear placement. pull through the bulge (which i found to be the crux) up in to the corner. Figure some gear and climb the corner to a really fun move exiting the corner. I recommend continuing up Electric Socks, it's fun and has a better anchor.

Do be aware that this climb could be as dangerous for the belayer as it is for the leader. Watch for loose blocks!

Location 

the jagged corner just right of Electric Socks (5.8)

Protection 

Bolt, pin, trad gear. Key sizes are in the finger range but i used a little of every thing.