|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, 1979|
|Submitted By:||John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011|
|Comments on Baradur||Add Comment|
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By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
The first pitch of this thing is truly a gem. Funky, engaging corner climbing delivers you to a devious and tricky-to-protect crux that gives way to sheer 5.10 chicken head glory. The crux may be very difficult for those under ~5.10"...you may have to dyno? The second pitch is a head game with a pretty cool crux section.
The first pitch anchors have been updated to fat 1/2" SS bolts and hangers with links+rings. Thank you ASCA!. The old 1/4" bolts broke under frighteningly little force. Thanks to Greg Kay for the long hours he spent up there helping out and hauling heavy crap, and to Geir Hundal for loaning equipment, this classic climb is now ready to rock. And deserves to be climbed, at least the 1st pitch--it's excellent climbing and completely safe--go do it!
The second pitch is verging very close to R territory. Ok, I'm gonna say R. Don't fall. The lone 1/4" bolt protecting the crux on this pitch has also been updated to 1/2"SS (it also broke quite easily while I was trying to pull it). There's 3"-5" pro to be had in a small left-facing corner above the bolt, but it is in questionable rock. Instead of building an anchor in this crappy corner, you might just want to run it out way up and left to Disappointment Corner. You'll find good anchor pro up there.
The final pitch is very run-out 5.8 climbing. By that I mean, after searching far and wide for a long time, I found just one laughably poor piece in ~70'. It's easy climbing, though. Either join Disappointment Corner, or cast off into the blank unknown in the hopes you'll find Helm's Deep's anchors or some other place to build an anchor...
Rack: singles 00-0 BD cams, doubles from 0.3 BD-#3 BD cams, + a #4 if you're going to the top; stoppers; RPs/brass nuts/offsets very helpful.