|The Great Arch
|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Wayne Arrington & Mike Seeley on July 6-7, 1972 at (IV 5.8 A2) FFA: Peter Fralick & Chris Fralick on May 12, 1985 at (IV 5.11a)|
|Page Views: ||2,411|
|Submitted By: ||Christopher Wright on Jul 30, 2011|
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Pete Keane entering the crux on P5.
An amazing route, and certainly one of the best and longest trad climbs in Oregon. Worthy of a visit from anyone up to the challenge, Barad Dur is inarguably one of the classiest of our Northwestern adventure climbs. Over the course of eight pitches of mostly excellent rock climbing, a combination of moderate face and crack climbing, plenty of bolts, and a few bold, steep, awesome crux pitches lead you through an audacious series of roofs and up to the top of Wolf Rock. Expect to run it out on easy terrain, but to be well-protected, often by bolts, at all of the route's cruxes. Though there is some loose rock on the route and it is fairly a serious undertaking, climbers adept at heads-up route-finding will find the rock to be mostly quite solid (at least by Oregonian standards).
P1: Follow a line of well-spaced bolts on dark rock up to a bolted belay. (5.9)
P2: Climb up and right past one good bolt and a hangerless dowel. Continue up and right passing a few more bolts until you can climb a somewhat manky right-facing corner to another bolted belay. P1 & P2 link easily with a 60m rope. (5.9)
P3: Climb up and left passing a few more bolts and the occasional gear placement before traversing left again to reach another bolted belay on a small ledge. (5.8)
P4: Head up and right on easy climbing to a low-angled ramp. Follow the ramp to a left-facing corner, and climb the corner until you can traverse left under a roof. Head left and then up to a belay on curious bolts at a small stance. (5.9)
P5. Head right past the obvious line of bolts and around the intimidating corner, then up to a semi-hanging bolted belay on your right. (5.10d)
P6. Climb straight up to cruxy moves over a roof past a bolt. Place gear and make a strenuous mantle onto the sloping shelf on your right. From there, make an extremely airy traverse out right around the corner and up to another bolted belay. (5.11a)
P7: Head up and left on easy but largely unprotected terrain following the path of least resistance until you're able to build a belay. A single old bolt on a ledge may be encountered. (5.4)
P8: Continue up for several hundred feet on low-5th and 4th-class terrain until the technical climbing eases to scrambling. Scramble up and left following a narrow but extremely exposed (and loose) ridge until you can eventually gain the summit pinnacle.
Descent: From the summit, trend west/southwest along the ridgeline following a faint trail when possible until you can gain the Southwest Gully descent. A mix of grassy hillsides and 3rd-4th class down-climbing in a water groove will lead down the drainage until it is possible to exit onto a climber's path on your left. Follow the path back to the road.
Located about 35 miles from Eugene near the Blue River Reservoir on the west side of the Oregon Cascades, whether approached from the east or west, getting to Wolf Rock will involve about ten miles of driving on well-maintained gravel roads. Though it is probably simpler to find your way from the west, the directions provided from the east aren't quite as complicated as they sound. Barring any changes from July 2011, the roads both ways are completely passable with a low-clearence, 2WD vehicle. From the east, drive Hwy 126 to make a right on Deer Creek Rd (FS140). Take that 0.6 miles to make a left onto Rd 2655. Drive that 1.3 miles until you can take a right onto Rd 2654. Drive that 4.8 miles until you can take a slight left onto Rd 2656. Drive that 1.1 mi to Rd 700. Take a left onto Rd 15. Drive that 1.3 mi until the wall is obvious on your right. From the west, drive 126 about 35 miles from Eugene to take a left on Blue River Reservoir Rd. Pass a number of campgrounds and signs for an experimental forest, staying all of the time on Rd. 15. Bearing right at most intersections (again staying on Rd. 15), about 10 miles of dirt road will lead you to find the wall on your left. Park at a pull-out on the south side of the road under The Great Arch. Follow a climber's trail up through the woods until you reach the wall, heading right to the base of the route, which is easily identified by two patched bolt holes at chest height.
Medium rack to 3" with many slings. No RPs or tiny micro-cams necessary.
Thanks to an excellent re-bolting job, all of the belays are sound and all of the lead bolts that needed replacing have been replaced. A few old bolts do remain throughout the route, but it is unlikely that any will ruin your day.
Pete Keane contemplates the steepness from low on ...
Pete Keane on one of the many fine moderates low o...
A lousy view of Chris Wright finishing up P6.
FFA entry into the summit register.
Pete Keane working it out on P6.
Barad Dur takes on the wild roof system in the cen...
FA entry in the summit register.
Jonny just through the crux on P5.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on the 5th belay from the end of pitc...
From: Monterey, CA
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Totally Awesome Climb! The most memorable climb I've ever done to date. Reasonably well protected and really unique climbing. A must do for anyone up for the challenge. Be warned though... definitely an adventure route. Above the P6 roof, be ready for extensive exposed and loose scrambling.