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Banjolero 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Fun climb, great holds.

Description 

A fun steep and pocketed route that saves the crux for the last move.

Start in a dihedral feature where left wall is covered in pockets. Make the easy moves to get to the first bolts. Get into the dihedral feature using and use the steep pockets to get through the next few bolts. Move left at the top onto a flake feature on the left face. Hurry up and make the last few tough moves before your arms give out and clip the anchors.

Location 

This route starts in a alcove feature 50' left of Boilerplate. Look for the obvious pockets left of a dihedral and a flake on the left face near the top. A 60m will get you down.

Protection 

QD's for 7 bolts and a two-bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Banjolero Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!
Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!
Rock Climbing Photo: Alissa working her way up the steep jugs.  Great r...
Alissa working her way up the steep jugs. Great r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun stem moves!
Fun stem moves!

Comments on Banjolero Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This was an awesome route! Get on it if you're in the area. A few friends that did the route with me felt it was a bit heady around the last bolt or two - I just thought it got a bit pumpy. :)
By polloloco
From: Diamond Bar, CA
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agree with John - got a little pumpy but not really heady.
By Dann
May 31, 2016

The move from the last bolt to the anchors is definitely the heady crux. It gets pretty thin to the left but I tried heading out to the right and found a nice little lip for toes and pulled myself into the crack for a great rest spot. From that position there is a nice crimp that you can crank up on and throw for a bomber hold at the top which brings you even with the chains. A small move over left to a decent ledge handhold and you are home free!

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