Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandito 
Bozeman Bullet 
Desperado 
Drifter 
Geronimo 
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The 
Space Cowboy 
Sundance 
Tombstone 
Warpath 

Bandito 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 2002 Mark Meschinelli and Dave Hough
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 10, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

A short and sustained finger crack with a flaring crux. Easily top-roped after leading Warpath , but a good challenging lead as well. Gear placements might be tricky in spots.

Clip the bolt up and right of the bolted belay. Follow the flake/incipient crack through a few short hand sections and past a dead tree stump to the leaning finger crack. Follow the incipient crack through the roof and up the face/seam/crack above until it is possible to step left to the anchor for Warpath.


Location 

Start: On the Tombstone P1 ledge; see description for P1.
Descent: Rappel from bolted fixed anchor; a 70m rope makes it to the ground. Need confirmation on a 60m, anyone?


Protection 

To BD #1 C4 size, possibly double fingers; 1 protection bolt, bolted fixed anchor



Comments on Bandito Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 10, 2011

Just to note, Lawyer/Haas have it rated as 10d PG. I'm not certain why the PG. The gear is a bit tricky in spots, but I didn't really feel like I couldn't protect the climb at any point. However, at the hardest parts I was just pushing through, so maybe the gear isn't good there. I felt the distance between pieces was reasonable for G though. But feel to comment/correct.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 12, 2011

I think it's PG because of the pro difficulties at the start after the bolt -- you'll fall below the belay. I'd be happy with "G", though.

By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 12, 2011

Jim, that makes sense. I think I glossed over the opening moves in my memory. I remember that being a bit "in your face" now that you mention it. I knew I was probably not remembering something. Thanks for the reminder and all your hard work over the years.