Bandito 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | 2002 Mark Meschinelli and Dave Hough |
| Submitted By: | Greg Kuchyt on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Description A short and sustained finger crack with a flaring crux. Easily top-roped after leading Warpath , but a good challenging lead as well. Gear placements might be tricky in spots.
Clip the bolt up and right of the bolted belay. Follow the flake/incipient crack through a few short hand sections and past a dead tree stump to the leaning finger crack. Follow the incipient crack through the roof and up the face/seam/crack above until it is possible to step left to the anchor for Warpath.
Location Start: On the Tombstone P1 ledge; see description for P1.
Descent: Rappel from bolted fixed anchor; a 70m rope makes it to the ground. Need confirmation on a 60m, anyone?
Protection To BD #1 C4 size, possibly double fingers; 1 protection bolt, bolted fixed anchor
By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 10, 2011
| Just to note, Lawyer/Haas have it rated as 10d PG. I'm not certain why the PG. The gear is a bit tricky in spots, but I didn't really feel like I couldn't protect the climb at any point. However, at the hardest parts I was just pushing through, so maybe the gear isn't good there. I felt the distance between pieces was reasonable for G though. But feel to comment/correct. |
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 12, 2011
| I think it's PG because of the pro difficulties at the start after the bolt -- you'll fall below the belay. I'd be happy with "G", though. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 12, 2011
| Jim, that makes sense. I think I glossed over the opening moves in my memory. I remember that being a bit "in your face" now that you mention it. I knew I was probably not remembering something. Thanks for the reminder and all your hard work over the years. |
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